Sweet setup. Thanks for taking the time to document w/ pics. Your going to love the barkbusters.

.

 

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/...8/IMG_9522.jpg

It funny, I did the same thing. I didn't like how close to the rad hose and fitting that the bracket gets so I ground a round notch in it and put some heat shrink to pad it a bit.

On another subject, I am just getting ready to do the valves, and I know I read it on here somewhere, but is it better to be on the tight or loose side of the spec for valves. I am pretty sure I read that they tighten as they wear.

 

If the valves are set to the tight end of spec I think there will be better performance as the valves will open that little bit more. More mixture in, easier exhaust out. It would be a subtle difference.
And yes, they tighten as they wear.
Just my $0.02.

 

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...es-wear-32453/

Tighten as they wear, I had to ask a while back.
Dan

 

Thanks, so for the longest maintenance interval I should adjust to the loosest in spec clearance. Thanks, this site is all knowing.

 

The rad hose thing wasn't appealing, so the brace got a good bending to fit around it.

 

I shot Bill Blue an email asking if we needed to re-torque the head bolts after a run in. His reply (below) was .......no.
Dan

"Hello Dan,

No need to re torque the head. Glad you are happy with your kit,

Thanks
Bill "

My email to Bill.
"Hi Bill,
I'm really pleased with my 351 #75. Many hard miles, and no issues whatsoever. Thank you!
Someone asked recently about re torquing the head bolts after a few heat cycles. I think I asked you that very question back when I installed my kit, and if I remember correctly you said there really was no need. Am I remembering correctly?"

 

Scott, you are an ****, worry-wart...and the work is outstanding...LOL!

I'm really impressed with all the fastidious cleanliness of your prep and parts. On that muffler hanger, I've beaten my initial design mount for over 2 years now. I inspect it occasionally while replacing a tire or doing other work back there, and I've never seen so much as a stress crack or loosening. I think this design works as its own damper too. Shame on Kaw for designing such a wimpy muffler mount, especially remembering it was meant to hold the boat anchor they supplied...LOL!

On cylinder retorquing, I think that is a hangover from old school days when manufacturing tolerances and gaskets weren't so hot. These days that only needs to be done on some very specialized and/or extreme racing engines.

Great work, Scott. Maybe I'll get to see everything up close if our Moab trips coincide this year...or you get to go to Big Bend as you're threatening.

 

It looks like everybody is in the house today.
I agree with TNC on your fastidiuososity….
I just finished checking my clearances. As luck would have it they are all at the tight limit but still in spec. .18 and .20 for exhaust and .10 for both intakes. The shims all measure .305 or so except on one exhaust which measures .299. My question to the panel of expert gentlemen is, should I go one thickness down on all the shims to get me back in the middle of the spec window? What says the brain trust...

 

That's a tough one, red. I mean if they're in spec, then they're in spec. However, if a big trip opportunity pops up or some other venue where you'll go push the bike fairly hard for a bit, it would be better insurance to be on the loose side. C'mon, man...you have the valve cover off already, so get off your lazy duff and change 'em out.

I think they start easier too if the valves are on the loose side. Yeah, it's snowing here right now in west Texas, but most of this week and next weekend appears clear and in the 55-70 degree range. Oh the humanity!