So I finally got around to adjusting / playing with my suspension the other day and this is what I found out for those of you who may be interested.

First, since I'm 230 I didnt bother to try and set the sag because at that weight I know I need new springs front and back to get the sag dialed in just right. I also noticed several things that maybe other's have or havent noticed yet. For reference material I have both the owners manual and the older service manual but not the new supplement yet.

As suggested I jacked the bike off the ground and removed the bleeder screws at the top of the forks to equalize the air pressure. I then checked the number of clicks to confirm the default settings. On My bike the fork compression settings were set to the older Manual and not the owners manual. IE - they were 12 clicks out from fully seated. With a 16 click spread this would be way to soft. I also noticed that on my front forks I have a 22 clicker range. Yep 22, I double checked it. Turned the clickers all the way in and then backed them all they way out. 22 clicks for both sides. I was like Hmmmm. I decided to set mine 6 clicks out from fully seated.

I then went to the rear to adjust those. Again my settings were set to the same as the default in the old manual and not the owners manual. I forget what the default was But the compression was way to soft and the rebound was set to hard. I set mine at 8 clicks out from fully seated on compression and 12 clicks out from fully seated on rebound. My understanding is you want rebound to be fairly loose

Also I made a attempt to tighten up the preload just a touch. The older service manual says that the preload can be adjusted from like 4.01 inches to a little over 5 inches. This is measured from the middle of the top shock mounting hole to the spring adjusting nut. My default setting was just short of 4 1/2 inches when I measured it. I cranked that puppy down untill it measured 4 3/4 of a inch and then used the lock nut to lock it down.

My first impressions are as follows. The bike is much stiffer now and actually feels like a dirtbike. The forks dont dive nearly as much as it did in a hard brake situation. I think I could even do just a little jumping with the bike now. It just Feels Better is the bottom line, If anything now its too stiff. I will leave it at that though untill I get the new springs installed. But for now I'm pretty happy. I posted this for all you guys that are on the bigger side and havent messed with their suspension yet. Go for it guys, Its easier then you think.


LV

 

LV,

Thanks for this info. You and I are about the same size, so I think we will end up at about the same place on our settings.

I did mine the other day as well, but it looks like I might have overlooked something. I used this link as a guide in my adjustments. Using the procedure outlined beginning @ post #1780, I adjust first the rear main spring and then the compression adjustment screw at the very bottom. I then did the front pretty much exactly as you described.

Based on your writeup, though, it sounds like I missed one of the adjustment opportunities on the rear. I don't have my owner's manual with me, so this may be just a flat out dumb question, but where are you making the rebound and compression adjustments. I only see one clicker on the rear, and it's at the very bottom of the cylinder. Am I missing another point?

Also, I didn't quite follow the change you made to the actual spring compression. I cranked mine way down so that only about 1/2" of thread is left below the adjustment ring. I am not quite sure where you are measuring from, but I know that I moved the adjustment ring probably 1.5" or so from where it was. It sounds like you did not move yours as much.

My bike ended up way too stiff. The front feels really good (a reasonable amount of fork dive on hard braking). The rear is like a saw horse, though. I have thought more than once about the "anvil" that Nobrakes called the seat. As soon as I get a few minutes, I am going to soften the rear up some, but I would like to hear more from you before I do that.

Thanks again.

Chris

 

Excellent info, Lord, thanks! I'm going to do mine soon (but I weigh 165...), and I am clueless about it, so I'll print this out and grab my manual and have a go at it.

My rear sag is pretty bad -- bike sags so much on its own on the sidestand that it almost falls over! Anyone notice this with stock settings?

 

I know this bike is really finicky about the side stand / ride height / etc... Sometimes it leans too far over, sometimes not enough.
I'm always real careful about how and where I park it. I think the problem is that the side stand doesn't have enough leverage angle on it...
It should stick out more to the left side so that it's more stable.

 

Ummm, couple of things. There are adjustment clickers on Both the fluid cylinder tube hanging off the top of the shock and at the very bottom of the shock. You can see the bottom adjuster by looking thru the swingarm linkage at the bottom of the shock. Now that I think about it though I'm not 100% sure which is compression and which is rebound. Hey maybe I adjust mine backwards. [] I will check tonight when I get home.

Also it sounds like you compressed your rear spring to much and thats why its so stiff. Measure from the middle of the shock top mounting bolt to the adjusting nut. It should be no more then about 5 inches. I only went 4 3/4 because I didnt want to crank it down to max preload to still allow it some spring action.

Finally, remember though if your like me at 6 foot and around 230 its going to take new springs front and rear to really dial it in But this is good enough for now. Let me know if you have any more issues and I will help if I can.


LV

 

Charles, at 165 you should be perfect for the suspenion on the bike. No need to replace springs Just set the sag and compression/rebound. If you have the Main service manual use that instead of the owners manual. I found my default settings matched that manual and Not the owners manual. let me know if you need more help or if in tampa just swing by the house. I live by the buc's stadium close to tampa airport.


LV

 

LV,

Thanks for the info. I had not noticed the one on the upper cylinder. I will check on that when I can get to the bike.

I know you said that you are going to re-check which is compression vs. rebound. As it stands right now though, do I understand correctly that you have the lower one set at 6 clicks from bottomed-out (BO) and the upper one set at 12 clicks from BO? Do I have you backward?

Thanks again.

Chris

 

You think the bike leans now, try a Dunlop 606 tire on the back and it really leans, that's why I made this little handy item.

 

Ummm let me check when I get home and I will let you know.


LV

 

Ok, let me see if I can make things a little more clear.

The rear shock has Both compression and rebound clicker adjustments on it. The Compression adjustment clicker is the one on top that's located right where the external fluid container connects to the shock. The Rebound adjustment clicker is the one at the Very bottom of the shock. The fork compression clicker is of course on the bottom of the front forks. To adjust, screw these clickers in clockwise all the way till they stop and then back them out the required number of clicks.


The Owners Manual states that the Default settings for the forks and shock are as follows.

Front Forks - Compression = 8 clicks out from fully seated.

Rear Shock - Compression = 16 clicks out from fully seated / Rebound = 12 clicks out from fully seated.



The Main klx250R Service Manual states that the Default settings for the forks and shock are as follows.

Front Forks - Compression = 12 clicks out from fully seated.

Rear Shock - Compression = 14 clicks out from fully seated / Rebound = 9 clicks out from fully seated.


I found My bike to have the Default Klx250R Service Manual settings. I went with 6 cliks out on the forks because I want them to be nice and firm and I figure they will take more punishment then the shock. I went with 8 clicks out on compression and 12 clicks out on rebound because it seems to match the front settings. It's a good starting point, but looking at the stock settings it might be a little stiff.


As far as setting the spring preload goes the Service manual states that for a Klx250d the standard is 115.5mm or 4.55 inches. This distance measurment is taken from the Center of the top shock mount hole/bolt to the center of the adjusting nut position. It states the adjustable range is from 106 - 128mm Or 4.16 - 5.04 inches. I take that to mean that if you have to go over that or under that measurement in trying to set Sag then you need a different spring. I already know I need a new spring so I set it at 4 3/4 inch to crank in the preload But not Max it out. Hope this helps....



LV