Well, it took me a little longer than most people to get my bike all torn down for the 351. 3 hours and lots of cussing. I don't have a 351 kit yet, I'm sending out my cylinder to Bill tomorrow. I didn't want to have to deal with the core charge, then send mine in and be refunded. Here are a few photo's.

 

Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes from 60 in-lbs to 40 ft-lbs or there will be alot of cussing (and driving to the tool store) upon reassembly.

 

Nice idea so what's the cost doing it that way?

 

And whatever you do don't lose the cam chain down into the cases

 

Use a torque wrench for EVERYTHING on the top end that has a given torque value.

 

Get the valve shim sizes while your inside the head. Knowing what sizes are in your motor and what clearances you have will help in locating the correct shims before hand saving that extra trip when your reshimming. Get barnett clutch springs right off the get go. Mine seemed fine after break in. But after awhile there was that little slip in 4th/5th/6th requiring new plates. Which looking back could have been avoided.

 

I tried to check valve clearance before I did anything and it was impossible to do. I have flat and angle feeler guages and I was not able to get them in there to check the valves. I will try again on reassy. Any tips on how to do it.

 

???


How big is the handle on your gauges ? Jesus could drive a truck through the space you have on the KLX to check valves compared to my Ninja.

 

I took off all 4 valve caps 1 at a time and then put back on and I cannot read any of the numbers on the shim's. They all start with a 0 and end with a 5 but the numbers in between cannot be read.

 

I have craftsman guages. I don't know I just could not get in there. Maybe 1 to many bud lights at the time.