2018 KLX 250 Suspension Settings
Just messing with ya buddy, either I've had too much coffee or I'm stoked that this is my Friday, either way, its alllllllllllll good!!! Hahahaha Have a great weekend!
Repair manual says that both, the fork and the shock, may click more times than the effective range. All clicks beyond 16 do nothing.
Mine is an Aussie 2018 and it has 22 clicks. My manual also says it should be 22.
Has anyone tried 0 wt or 2.5 wt oil? I'm running 5 wt with heavier springs, compression clickers 15 clicks out and still get spikes or wrist stings on the never ending stutter/braking bumps on the gravel National Forest Roads. I know I need to bite the bullet for gold valves but the Race Tech certified suspension guy says he never uses them, suggested lighter weight oil...
Consensus is that the stock valves can't move enough oil to take the edge off sharp hits. Using lighter oil may help but will also reduce rebound which is non-adjustable.
I went with Gold Valves and have been very happy with the results. Installation was not difficult and there are several related youtube vids out there that help. I found a set on clearance for about $110 if my memory is correct.
At singletrack speeds, my forks will now absorb running over a 4 to 5 inch diameter tree branch in the trail without upsetting the front end or punishing me (I was looking for 'plush').
I went with Gold Valves and have been very happy with the results. Installation was not difficult and there are several related youtube vids out there that help. I found a set on clearance for about $110 if my memory is correct.
At singletrack speeds, my forks will now absorb running over a 4 to 5 inch diameter tree branch in the trail without upsetting the front end or punishing me (I was looking for 'plush').
Thanks a ton AG. I wasn't sure if that was something I could tackle myself. If I can do myself cost would be way down (and I have a birthday coming up haha). No special tools required? I'll check some youtube vids so a reply is not necessary (boss is out today
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When it comes time to put it back together, it is handy to have a "fork cartridge holder" so you can torque the bolt to the correct spec without the cartridge spinning in the fork leg. I found a cheap one somewhere for about $25 I think. When I get a chance, I'll try and remember/find where I got it.
You also need a small file to remove the threads that are mushroomed over the nuts holding the valve bodies together.
That is about it for special tools.


