1000-1500ft elevation where i live in tempe, az(for the commuting) but the main trail I have been riding so far called four peaks (new to AZ, still finding places) goes as high as 7000 ft(trail might just be to 5000) -since I will probably be riding in different elevations from AZ deserts to the mountains should I look into one of those jetting screws that allow for more on the fly tuning(kouba screw i think its called-i apologize for poor terminology)

 

+1 on the Kouba Screw.

Interesting fact - Mr. Kouba is from here in Boise area and is a friend of the owner of the shop I work with. If you order direct from him, I think you'll need to buy 2 screws. Check with your local shop and they can probably order just one. Make sure they order the correct one.

I'm riding 2,500 up to 9,000 feet. The guys here claim the CVK carb is very forgiving of elevation changes and the Kouba screw can be used for on-the-ride adjustments. I'm guessing that you'd do fine with the same jetting I installed, but do some looking around here as I think there are others from your area and they may have things a little different.

Also, this whole jetting thing is not an exact science. Bikes are different from one to another, and so is personal preference.

 

haha-yes, i had looked at that write up, that contributed to me wanting to wait until I had some help with the work-since it visually shows you how much has to be taken off to get to the engine.(its still so nice and new-i would kick myself if i messed anything up with the disassembly/reassembly =P)
will a jetting kit void the warranty on the bike? also-would it prevent the bike form passing an emissions test?

 

^^very good write up none the less tho-have it bookmarked for when i do decide to do the work

 

Warranty? - dunno. Mine's a 3rd owner 2006 so the warranty is long gone.
Emissions? - perhaps...now you really need some locals to chime in. I need to emission test by truck, but not my bike. It may be possible that cranking in the Kouba screw would lean it out enough to pass emissions. I pulled the smog crap off, and doing that could also get you sideways on a test. And the stock muffler has a catalytic converter which your replacement probably won't have.

 

My dealer said pipes and jets if done correctly wouldn't void the warranty. I've seen this on other forums with other bikes and if it gets to court it must be proven that you did something to cause the failure and these changes when done correctly only help the engine to breathe and work as it was designed. You might ask your dealer but I think the law is on your side on this one. As far as a smog test I have no experience with that as Indiana doesn't have one so I don't know. My thought is if you pipe and jet it and don't remove the stock smog stuff from your bike it would be ok, but I don't know that for sure.

 

Ill ask the dealership tomorrow if they have any idea on how strict emissions test are here in AZ. Just got back form a few hour ride at four peaks, ended the ride due to a nice big nail in my rear tire. looks like im gonna need to buy a new tube. the tire is still brand new pretty much-only about 20 miles on trail riding on it, another 100 or so in street miles-woudl i need to patch the hole in the tire too? or just replace the tube.

 

currently browsing around for a guide on how to properly remove the back wheel to change this tire tube...$15 for a new tube(DIY) or $85+ for the shop to do it...anyone know of any posted? or anything in particular i should know when removing the rear wheel wheel/replacing a tube?

 

oh one other thing-am i ok leaving the bike on the kickstand with a flat back tire? or do i need to keep the back wheel off the ground to prevent the rim from bending

 

Unless you know what you are doing, have all the right equipment and someone to help, try and avoid the replacing the tube bit. Taking the tyre off and putting it on again is a real bitch, let alone trying to slip the valve through the hole.

If you do go ahead and do it yourself, either use a soapy solution to lubricate the tube and tyre bead. The alternative is to use lots of talcum powder. When removing the tyre, start at the valve then work to the other side of the rim. When putting the tyre back on, start the opposite side to your valve and keep pushing the bead to the centre of the rim. By doing that it gives you a bit of extra play to be able to get the bead over the rim because the centre of the reim is inset a bit compared to the edge. I would go as far as getting a couple of G-clamps to actually clamp the beads together (gently) while putting the tyre back on.

Use 3 tyre levers for the process. Make sure your rim lock is loose while removing and replacing the tyre. Once you have the tyre back together, inflate the tube to about 15 psi, bounce the tyre around a bit to try get the tube settled, totally deflate the tube, then reinflate it back to the pressure you want.

Personally, I would just get the dealer to change it for you.