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-   -   2009 KLX 250 s not starting, but electric start works fine... (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/2009-klx-250-s-not-starting-but-electric-start-works-fine-47147/)

Thomas Cottis 04-14-2020 02:26 AM

2009 KLX 250 s not starting, but electric start works fine...
 
I go to start it, insert the key and turn it on, give it about quarter throttle and hit the start button. It cranks and cranks and sounds fine, but wont start using electric start... Once bump started, the bike works and runs fine. When hot, i kill the bike and start it again but still wont start using the electric starter. Any suggestions to why it would be like this? Thanks!

Brewster 04-14-2020 02:29 AM

What have you already checked?

Ride on
Brewster

Thomas Cottis 04-14-2020 02:39 AM

well, just bought it. I dont think its the carb, may be the spark plug. when i test rode it it started pretty easily. could it have flooded when i loaded it into my truck and drove home?

durielk 04-14-2020 01:29 PM

If you have a carb, when starting, turn on the gas valve and wait 10 seconds, fully pull on the choke, DO NOT TURN THE THROTTLE, hit the starter, do not turn the throttle until it is running, then when you do, keep it at 3K for about 10 seconds to clear. Reset the choke after .1 of a mile of riding.

After it's fully warmed up, it will start without the choke if you run into a store or something.

ALONEINTHEHILLS 04-14-2020 09:53 PM

I agree it may be either the carburetor or the starting technique mentioned previously. If it bump starts, it not likely the spark plug nor is it likely flooded. It could be a weak battery not able to turn over a cold engine. Check voltage with the key off and while cranking.

durielk 04-14-2020 10:02 PM

If it is cranking, you have voltage, hello!

Dragone#19 04-14-2020 10:27 PM


Originally Posted by durielk (Post 549421)
If you have a carb, when starting, turn on the gas valve and wait 10 seconds, fully pull on the choke, DO NOT TURN THE THROTTLE, hit the starter, do not turn the throttle until it is running, then when you do, keep it at 3K for about 10 seconds to clear. Reset the choke after .1 of a mile of riding.

After it's fully warmed up, it will start without the choke if you run into a store or something.

This one^

I remember some good old write ups in this forum concerning the same questions. May be some long winded reading though. Good luck

ALONEINTHEHILLS 04-15-2020 01:32 AM


Originally Posted by durielk (Post 549428)
If it is cranking, you have voltage, hello!

Yes, hello, how much voltage is the question...
You seem like you'll figure it out and help the poster then, so I spare you the details on why it could still be the battery and how to actually check one.

durielk 04-15-2020 11:34 AM

I'm all ear's, how does a battery stop it from starting if it will turn the engine over at a normal rotation?
Please include you personal experience when dealing with this issue under this situation, as I find it hard to understand how this could happen.

ALONEINTHEHILLS 04-15-2020 03:01 PM

Most people don't really understand electrical systems, so here's a few things: starter motor power in watts = volts x amps. A good motorcycle "12V" battery should be around 12.7V fully charged(higher for LiPo). At 12V it has 25% or less charge. When you crank an engine voltage drops. Too much drop and the starter motor will spin, but not draw enough power (watts) to start many engines when cold. YouTube "Voltage Drop Test" to see how to test. Most people, especially the owner of a new to them bike, can't hear the difference between a static 12.7V or one at 12.3V on the battery when they start cranking.

Personal experience:
1. Bought a used KLX that was about 6 years old. Original battery, owner kept it on a tender. I got it, left it off the tender for 2 days, and battery dropped to 12.3V, good crank, no start. On the tender for 2hr, started fine. Had a LiPo ordered and dropped that in, started fine.

2. On other forums this comes up constantly. Someone buys bike, it's 4 or more years old and has starting issues, but "ran great when the bought it". 90% of the time it's the battery and the prior owner constantly had it on a tender, but off a tender for a few days it goes flat.

So, anyone that has starting issues, on a bike with either a brand new battery or one that is more than a few years old, should first see if they have >12.6V at the battery (higher for LiPo) and know how to do a voltage drop test. It's the quickest check to do.


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