2007 KLX250S Hard Cold & Hot Start
#61
02-23-2013, 04:17 PM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,422
Bike will start SOMETIMES with the e starter, but if you give it a little throttle (you can hear it trying to start), it DOES NOT matter if the choke is on or if it is not on. If you do not give it a little throttle when trying to start, it just wants to crank and crank and crank... Again, I AM using choke and no choke on both conditions, it doesn't seem to matter on it starting any easier one way or the other. On the idling side, it will not idle at 1200-1300ish rpm like it should be, it will idle at around 3000rpm (fiddling with the idle screw), but it will then drop down in RPM and DIE. When bump started, the bike runs great at higher RPMS, the power is definitely there and there doesn't feel like there is any loss of power or anything. Bump started or e-started, the low speed idle is still the same. I also agree that this is not only crazy but completely ridiculous for a bike with this low of miles. What would I have to gain from trying to do what you call "pull a fast one on the forum?" I don't appreciate being insulted. I'd be more than happy to make a video showing my issue, or talk to somebody over the phone about it. I am genuinely trying to get help and solve my situation.
haha. Perhaps something is wrong with your starter/battery/ but more likely, the alternator (called something else on the bike) where it is putting out enough charge at high rpm to keep her running, but at low rpm voltage drops and she dies?
#62
02-23-2013, 04:37 PM
OK, your bike is starving on fuel or you have an air leak that is leaning the mixture. It is running at high rpm because the carb is adding fuel from the main jet to keep it running.
I suspect the pilot circuit, air leak, or a weak spring on the CV carb allowing the slide to rise to fast. I know you replaced the carb, that indicates that you probably have an air leak or that both carbs have defective pilot circuits (not likely).
I would inspect the rubber between the carb & head for leaks. Did you replace that? Pull it out and really try to tear it apart with your hands, as a lot of times there are hairline cracks in the plastic molding that looks fine, but opens huge holes when stressed.
This is not an elec problem or ACR (if the ACR was opening too much, you would probably hear some backfire through the exhaust, etc when running).
I suspect the pilot circuit, air leak, or a weak spring on the CV carb allowing the slide to rise to fast. I know you replaced the carb, that indicates that you probably have an air leak or that both carbs have defective pilot circuits (not likely).
I would inspect the rubber between the carb & head for leaks. Did you replace that? Pull it out and really try to tear it apart with your hands, as a lot of times there are hairline cracks in the plastic molding that looks fine, but opens huge holes when stressed.
This is not an elec problem or ACR (if the ACR was opening too much, you would probably hear some backfire through the exhaust, etc when running).
#63
02-23-2013, 04:42 PM
The mysteriousness of the problem, the age of the bike, and the low mileage...could it be an air leak, or a vacuum problem, that is being missed?
It just has to be simple. Obviously not obvious, though.
Since fuel hasn't been fixing it, an ignition system problem?
Just guessing, like throwing the Hail Mary pass, 'cause you never know.
Good luck, you'll find it.
It just has to be simple. Obviously not obvious, though.
Since fuel hasn't been fixing it, an ignition system problem?
Just guessing, like throwing the Hail Mary pass, 'cause you never know.
Good luck, you'll find it.
#64
02-23-2013, 09:04 PM
I have asked a few people around my area, and they said that it may have something to do with a low spark or an electrical issue? Yesterday I bump started the bike and sprayed some carb cleaner on the intake boot to see if the RPM would change, possibly a vacuum leak, but it didn't do anything. I agree that it has to be something simple, I would just like to know what, lol.
#65
02-23-2013, 09:19 PM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 1,422
Take your bike, have someone start it and hold it open, connect the battery with jumper cables to another battery or bike, and bring the idle down and see what happens.
#66
02-23-2013, 10:10 PM
I have my battery hooked up to a trickle charger. I ended having a battery die on me already once, it was a gel battery, but I switched to an advance auto parts liquid battery. Same results when the battery is hooked up to the charger.
#68
02-24-2013, 12:40 AM
We are down to WA guesses...
Did you check the diaphram in the carbs?
You might try taking the boot from the carb to aircleaner off. Start it up and see if it runs ok like that and watch the operation of the CV slide to see if it is hanging up.
Did you check the diaphram in the carbs?
You might try taking the boot from the carb to aircleaner off. Start it up and see if it runs ok like that and watch the operation of the CV slide to see if it is hanging up.
#69
03-13-2013, 04:57 PM
I checked the diaphram in both carbs, no cracks, or anything wrong with either. I am still having the same issue even with the carb too aircleaner boot off. I would've thought that switching carbs would've done something, but it changed absolutely nothing. Is there some kind of relay that I don't know about or something? I'm out of ideas...
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