2007 KLX250S Hard Cold & Hot Start

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  #51  
Old 02-08-2013, 06:16 PM
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I don't have a problem checking the compression again, but I just don't see it being that. The bike has no bog or loss of power at all to it. When I get it going, it runs amazing.
 
  #52  
Old 02-20-2013, 05:12 PM
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I was able to check the compression, and it is showing 110psi. I also was able to buy a new carburetor from ebay off of an 09 klx. I hooked up the new carburetor and I am still having the exact same issues I've had all along. Bike will not start and operates in the same way as the old carburetor by twisting the throttle just slightly. Having the choke on or off produces the same results. Don't know what else to do.
 
  #53  
Old 02-20-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by FL_Sharpshooter
I was able to check the compression, and it is showing 110psi. I also was able to buy a new carburetor from ebay off of an 09 klx. I hooked up the new carburetor and I am still having the exact same issues I've had all along. Bike will not start and operates in the same way as the old carburetor by twisting the throttle just slightly. Having the choke on or off produces the same results. Don't know what else to do.
Perhaps the idle circuit is too rich (fuel mixture screw) and when you crack the throttle you let more air to the mixture causing it to fire?
 
  #54  
Old 02-20-2013, 06:13 PM
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Man, I don't know what to tell you on that deal. I'm assuming you inspected the setup on that replacement carb...jetting, fuel level, etc.
 
  #55  
Old 02-20-2013, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RockabillSlapMatt
Perhaps the idle circuit is too rich (fuel mixture screw) and when you crack the throttle you let more air to the mixture causing it to fire?
The screw is out at 2 turns, I don't see how this is likely, but I guess possible?

Originally Posted by TNC
Man, I don't know what to tell you on that deal. I'm assuming you inspected the setup on that replacement carb...jetting, fuel level, etc.
The gentleman I bought it off of actually has a dino machine and asked for my bike's specs and my temperature/altitude and said he would properly setup the carb. I also went ahead and inspected the carburetor's float level and jets to make sure he did it correctly. Looked correct to me, just didn't solve the issue I am having. Weird how I can get it to bump start every time though, just doesn't want to idle or start on an electric start. I'm seriously considering selling this thing and moving on.
 
  #56  
Old 02-22-2013, 04:51 PM
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IMHO no more than you have in the bike...and having exhausted all your troubleshooting capabilities....do what Andy told Aunt Bee .....Call the man....take it to the shop....tell them to troubleshoot....and call before doing any repairs...I wouldn't tell them anything that you've tried ....I'd play dumb....tell them the problem..and let them figure it out...with any luck you'll be letting the good tymes roll in no time...and stop the balding process aka pulling your hair out
 
  #57  
Old 02-22-2013, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
It's possible that something may be occurring with the KACR to reduce compression to too low a condition for a good cold start, but I'd tend to think it's not a big possibility. Cold starting with at least sufficient compression should be relying more on the proper amount of fuel than just about anything else for the KLX. The choke with a drilled starter jet should supply enough fuel. I see several folks mention cracking the throttle for a cold start on the CV carb, but it's a fact that this will reduce the draw of fuel through the starter circuit. It doesn't mean the bike won't still start, but you pull less fuel through the choke circuit with the carb butterfly off of its idle stop.
I agree, I do believe that you maybe having a problem with the ACR. It seems that you have investigated the carb a fair bit, you may want to look at this next.

I also have hard starting bike, hot and cold. There are many forums on the ACR talking about its setting not being scientific and large varying degree of placement from bike to bike. Marcelino's cam mode thread has lots of talk and pictures of the ACR. I will adjusting mine when I have time.
 
  #58  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:28 PM
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Let's summarize:
Bike will start with e starter, but will not run @ low rpm & stalls, constantly after warming up.
Bike can be bump started, and will run perfect.
What is the problem with the use of e starter?

The ACR is not tied to the e starter. Don't think that is the problem.
Are you using the choke on both conditions?
My real opinion, is that this is crazy and your just pulling a fast one on the forum.
 
  #59  
Old 02-23-2013, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by durielk
Let's summarize:
Bike will start with e starter, but will not run @ low rpm & stalls, constantly after warming up.
Bike can be bump started, and will run perfect.
What is the problem with the use of e starter?

The ACR is not tied to the e starter. Don't think that is the problem.
Are you using the choke on both conditions?
My real opinion, is that this is crazy and your just pulling a fast one on the forum.
Darren, I'm reading he still has starting problems even after the replacement carb.
 
  #60  
Old 02-23-2013, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by durielk
Let's summarize:
Bike will start with e starter, but will not run @ low rpm & stalls, constantly after warming up.
Bike can be bump started, and will run perfect.
What is the problem with the use of e starter?

The ACR is not tied to the e starter. Don't think that is the problem.
Are you using the choke on both conditions?
My real opinion, is that this is crazy and your just pulling a fast one on the forum.
Bike will start SOMETIMES with the e starter, but if you give it a little throttle (you can hear it trying to start), it DOES NOT matter if the choke is on or if it is not on. If you do not give it a little throttle when trying to start, it just wants to crank and crank and crank... Again, I AM using choke and no choke on both conditions, it doesn't seem to matter on it starting any easier one way or the other. On the idling side, it will not idle at 1200-1300ish rpm like it should be, it will idle at around 3000rpm (fiddling with the idle screw), but it will then drop down in RPM and DIE. When bump started, the bike runs great at higher RPMS, the power is definitely there and there doesn't feel like there is any loss of power or anything. Bump started or e-started, the low speed idle is still the same. I also agree that this is not only crazy but completely ridiculous for a bike with this low of miles. What would I have to gain from trying to do what you call "pull a fast one on the forum?" I don't appreciate being insulted. I'd be more than happy to make a video showing my issue, or talk to somebody over the phone about it. I am genuinely trying to get help and solve my situation.
 

Last edited by FL_Sharpshooter; 02-23-2013 at 03:33 PM.


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