Some of these bikes stock were kinda temperamental.

The first thing my bike shop does is pop off the cap and turn the fuel screw out about 2.5-3 turns.

That is how mine came when I got it and it worked great.

Shop said if they didn't do it, the owners are back the next day complaining about it anyways.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'm going to just go ahead and pop the cap for the fuel mixture screw. I can about bet some of that old green nasty fuel is laying in there. It seems like the bike is running way too lean, so I'll check what the factory setting is. I'm just now waiting on my 0.018 drill to come in, so I can just go ahead and do both mods at the same time. I appreciate the help.

 

Drill bit finally came in, but it turns out that I didn't need it, as the hole was already that size apparently, because it fell right through. I once again cleaned out the carb and popped the cap, removed the fuel mixture screw and cleaned out that circuit as well, and then adjusted the screw to 2 turns out (factory was about 1 5/8ish). Still am having the same problems I always have, I can get it running every once in a while, but when it is running the idle creeps down until it dies. After it is hot, I can NOT get it to run again. I don't know where to go beyond this point...

 

At this point, I suspect the float is getting hung up. Or check all the jets again? What else could it be?

Riding could jar it around enough to keep the fuel coming.

Or get a pumper carb, problem solved.

 

I test the compression today, and it came out at 45, not good. Sounds like I got a bent valve. I checked my gauge on my other motorcycle and mower, and it's reading good. Sucks, but looks like I got to tinker with the valves now.

 

Yeah, even with the KACR operating, that 45 psi doesn't sound good. I believe minimum with the KACR acativated is at least in the 60's. Mine was at 125 with the KACR, and that was near maximum. Do you know what your valve settings are at this point? You realize that a tight valve also causes low compression?...not just a bent or burned valve.

 

Yeah I knew a tight valve would. I'll have to see the valve settings, as I've never had it opened. Would a tight valve really cause me to lose that much compression? I believe the manual said it should be at ~127PSI

 

Actually, doesn't the manual list between 60-something and 127? I think there's a range because of the lack of precision in the KACR device. And yes, a tight valve can even keep many kickstart bikes from starting at all. Most of the time an electric start can overcome a tight valve, but it's still a big factor, and at some point even an e-start can fail to fire an open valved engine. You also can burn that particular valve a lot easier if you keep running it that way.

 

Yes you're right. I looked again and it said 64 ~ 127. Thanks. I'll check it out and see what the deal is.

EDIT: Just checked the valves, they are not staying open or closed improperly. It looks like to me that it is working like it should.

 

But did you measure the clearances?