bayou 300 dread neutral light curse
Im sure some have heard about the issue of the neutral light not coming on while in neutral it only happens every now and then sometimes I can rock it and it works. I have tried all the common sense trouble shooting and it leaves me with 2 options
1, figure out how to bypass the neutral safety switch and allow it to start in gear (but I would put it in neutral )
2. replace the neutral switch or I believe it is actually the neutral comp switch
after finding what I though was the neutral switch it was nothing like the switch the repair manual
Could someone explain exactly where the switch is and if need be a easy way to by pass it
99 Kawasaki bayou 300 4x4 KLF 300 c
any help would be greatly appreciated
1, figure out how to bypass the neutral safety switch and allow it to start in gear (but I would put it in neutral )
2. replace the neutral switch or I believe it is actually the neutral comp switch
after finding what I though was the neutral switch it was nothing like the switch the repair manual
Could someone explain exactly where the switch is and if need be a easy way to by pass it
99 Kawasaki bayou 300 4x4 KLF 300 c
any help would be greatly appreciated
The neutral switch is buried fairly deeply in the engine. The wires are generally red and green and exit through the top of the manual starter cover and connect into the wiring harness. To make matters worse, it is bathed in engine oil and cooked in engine heat. Electrical current comes into the switch and- depending on the shift lever position- continues on to the "Neutral" or "Reverse" light on the dash and then to the starter circuit- if in the "Neutral" position. If the "Reverse" light is lit- or the "Neutral" light is NOT lit- the starter will not engage. This prevents the starter from accidentally being activated while the engine is running. Replacement of the neutral switch involves removing the manual starter cover, the flywheel and the sub transmission case. Before you start the job, have some RTV sealant (or new gaskets) and a flywheel puller ready. The flywheel can be removed without a puller but the flywheel and it's internal components are precision parts and can be easily damaged- thereby creating further problems. I would remove the rear wheel to give myself more room. All this being said- the switch itself is fairly inexpensive.
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