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SOLVED! Mule 4010 Fuel Injection Idle problems - running rich

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SOLVED! Mule 4010 Fuel Injection Idle problems - running rich

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  #11  
Old 11-12-2017, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Snakebit12 View Post
Read post 7 above.
Ah...your question is whether it covers a 2009. Can't answer that but a dealer can.
 
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  #12  
Old 11-13-2017, 01:11 AM
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Location: Alabama
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Thank you Snakebit.. I will check it out..
 
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2017, 08:48 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
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Great thread. I have had this same issue for the past year on my 4010. It is a 2010 model but has only 990 hrs. I have submitted a question online to the selling dealership as to its eligibility for free repair. I am hesitant to take any of my units (I have 3) to the local dealerships having nothing but bad repair experiences at both that are local to me (Austin TX area). Anyone have any suggestions as to where a Kawasaki product can be dependably serviced? I've thought about just buying the service manuals and taking the units to my local (very dependable) auto repair shop and let them work on them? I wish they were still building the 1998 mules (yes carburated) but VERY dependable. My old 'dependable', while small, is a real workhorse. And for those wondering why I'm not doing the repairs myself? Old age and agility have taken their toll.
 
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  #14  
Old 02-08-2018, 04:42 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2018
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I had same rough idle develop with my 2011 4010 with only 250 hours. Repeatedly cleaning the TB was a temporary and unreliable fix. Dealer fixed under extended service (two trips) , then it got rough again about 100 hours later. Like many I was fed up with the fuel injection design. Then I realized that cleaning the throttle body was treating the symptom and not the cause. Inspecting the TB revealed that there are only three things going into it, filtered air, fuel and vapors from the crankcase (EGR). Another forum suggested disconnecting the EGR completely, after the frustration I'd gone through it seem worth a try.
I cleaned TB again and disconnected/plugged EGR tube from the TB. Results were not immediate, but got progressively better and now runs great! 150 hours later it is still running smoothly. To "rhaus" i would say this is a very simplistic repair, 10 mm wrench, socket, carb cleaner and a shop towel to plug the holes. Truly a low skill, low effort repair. 20 minutes tops. (don't remove TB, just loosen it enough to access both ends. spray carb cleaner and wipe with towel or toothbrush)
Good luck.
 
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  #15  
Old 03-06-2018, 07:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 1
Default Engine Perkins 403C -11 bolt up to a Kawasaki mule 4010 with a three cylinder diese

I was just curious to see if a Perkins three cylinder diesel will replace three cylinder in the Kawasaki mule
I have a Perkins 403C -11
 
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  #16  
Old 10-26-2018, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 2
Default 4010 Throttle Body repair - FREE

A BIG thank you to 'Snakebit' for the hint. I took my 2011 4010 to the dealer and had them verify that the problem that I was having was due to the throttle body issue discussed in the forum.Two weeks later (the first parts that were ordered were for a California model and had to be reordered) I have the mule back and it runs like new. And the repair cost, including new plugs, $0.00. Can't beat that!
 
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  #17  
Old 10-27-2018, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rhaus View Post
A BIG thank you to 'Snakebit' for the hint.
That's what forums like this are for...glad to be able to help.
 
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2018, 09:23 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: remlap, al
Posts: 4
Default 2012 Kawasaki mule 4010 throttle body

So I finally bit the dust and disconnected the crankcase breather tube on the ol' mule. It started running better almost immediately. It got better the longer it ran and I didn't even clean the throttle body. By the way I did check with the local dealership where I bought it from, they ran the vin number and came up with no recall on the 2012 model throttle body. So here's where I'm at, I routed the breather tube back around behind the fuel rail shortened it so that it turned downwards so I didn't get any water in the crankcase when I washed the engine or drove it thru a large puddle. Now comes the problem, after driving it full throttle down the road the breather tube started to blow oil onto the engine block. So now I'm back to the drawing board, there has got to be a better way to vent the crankcase than back thru the throttle body gumming up the butterfly valves. I thought about going to the local auto parts store and trying to find an old style breather cap that would go over the end of the hose and routing the tube to a different location. Anybody got any ideals? I tried to attach a picture of the current setup but it didn't work. As many people on the forum here with the same problem i figured maybe someone has come up with something I haven't thought of yet.
 

Last edited by locorob; 11-05-2018 at 09:36 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2018, 09:41 PM
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Location: remlap, al
Posts: 4
Default 2012 Kawasaki mule 4010 throttle body

Ok, I learned something new. The pictures I uploaded can be viewed by going to the three bars in the upper left of screen click on them and select gallery.
 
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2018, 06:15 PM
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locorob, I am in the exact same boat... No recall on 2012, disconnected breather, seems to help but I don't think the blow by gasses vent without the vacuum from the intake. With the crankcase breather disconnected from the intake and the engine running it feels like there is vacuum on the breather tube. I just left it disconnected anyway, but now I am getting fuel in my oil so I am going to try a catch can. It should allow the vacuum from the intake to draw the blow by gas out of the crankcase, but allow the gasses to condense in the catch can instead of gumming up the throttle body.
Anyone have any experience with catch cans, or advise regarding this application?
 
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