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Hello from Okinawa Mule 4010 problem

  #1  
Old 07-22-2011, 04:55 AM
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Default Hello from Okinawa Mule 4010 problem

Hello all.

Stumbled on this forum searching for troubleshooting info on a 4X4 Diesel model 4010 Mule. (Year 2010)

When I take foot off accelerator if doing more than 20 mph after a couple seconds it suddenly feels like it is lunging into low gear and like I will go through the winshield.

Drive converter seems OK. Driven converter was siezed and ramps worn. Cleaned up driven converter and replaced ramps. Shimmed for correct belt deflection but original symptoms remain. actually it almost seems worst not that the driven converter is functioning now.

Any suggestions or thoughts.

Thanx!
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2011, 04:02 AM
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Welcome to KF and what did you find out so far? The electrical cutting out on you? I am not a motorcycle mechanic, so help us all out on your learnings so far. Good luck
 
  #3  
Old 07-28-2011, 02:51 PM
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Welcome to the forums, not sure what could be causing that problem, as I'm limited mostly to the KLX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You better go get one and find out what you've been missing. Ok that might be the 4 cups of coffee talking that I've already had this morning. 4 down and 4 to go GIT-R-DONE!!!
 
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:36 PM
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moving to mule section...
 
  #5  
Old 08-06-2011, 09:05 PM
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Default Ditto....

Originally Posted by Okinawa View Post
Hello all.

Stumbled on this forum searching for troubleshooting info on a 4X4 Diesel model 4010 Mule. (Year 2010)

When I take foot off accelerator if doing more than 20 mph after a couple seconds it suddenly feels like it is lunging into low gear and like I will go through the winshield.

Drive converter seems OK. Driven converter was siezed and ramps worn. Cleaned up driven converter and replaced ramps. Shimmed for correct belt deflection but original symptoms remain. actually it almost seems worst not that the driven converter is functioning now.

Any suggestions or thoughts.

Thanx!
You are not alone, my 4010 trans is suffering exactly the same symptoms. I too had the ramps replaced and all cleaned out, now too resulting in 'lunging' into what feels like low gear. There is no gradual increase of resistance, it is either on or off it seems. My dog is getting tired of being launched at the dashboard when least expected!

Someone has to have a lead on this somewhere? Help!
 
  #6  
Old 12-23-2011, 02:40 AM
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When you replaced the ramps on the converter did you turn the back plate atleast 120 degrees also was the spring prongs inline with each other if not then you may have a bad spring.
 
  #7  
Old 04-07-2019, 01:47 AM
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Okinawa : I am having the same issue with mine. Did you solved the problem? What was it?
 
  #8  
Old 04-07-2019, 09:49 AM
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Hello.
I believe that have advised you on this before.

The issue is with the two bushings in the driven convertor. The driven convertor can be measured and the measurements are available in The Factory Service Manual. The wear tolerance on the bushings has a service limit measurement. The bushing part number is:- 92028-1864. Two are required.

The service limit on the large spring inside the driven convertor is 130.4mm.

The service limit on the sheave bushing internal diameter is 40mm (on both).

It's very important that if you replace these two bushings (because they have exceeded their service limit measurement), that you re-measure the new bushings once in place before reassembling the driven convertor.

I'll say that again because it is very important:- re-measure the internal diameter of the new bushings once they are installed. The new bushings may well be beyond the 40mm service limit as well.

A number of inaccurately machined driven clutches were installed on 4010 Trans Mules. If you install new bushings and they are beyond the service limit, the only option is a new complete driven clutch unit.

Whilst the driven clutch is still attached to the Mule but with the drive belt removed, you should be able to rotate the driven clutch outer sheave about 15 degrees. It will come away for the inner sheave when you rotate it because that is how it works. Whist in place rotated outwards, wriggle the outer sheave from side to side.

That sideways movement is what the problem is, and it is caused by excessive wear in the two bushings. It's excessive and the outer sheave jams outwards at a higher speed, but then won't release until you slow down. When the outer sheave jams, the driven convertor becomes the drive convertor and sends you over the bonnet.

Research the complete driven convertor part numbers for yourself, and you'll see how many times the part numbers for a complete unit have been superseded.
 
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