that turbo otta work, and spool up well, i'll look up some info on it in a little and see if i uncover anything useful..
as far as te i.c., you can size it to the motor's useage.
you booted output from the turbo will equal:

the unboosted CFM x boost pressure applied

heat drop on motors is typically 1:1 where 1 degree of intake manifold temp drop equals 1 degree in exaust gas temp drop.


a spacer or thicker head gasket will definitely cut your compression down, letting you run more boost.

you're kinda at a standstill tho. you only wanna run no more than 10psi. intercooling can let you run 12 on stock internals typically. its just cooling the charge to control detonation.

BUT, if you're only gonna run 8 pounds, you shouldn't have to run a thicker gasket and an i.c. to get incredible results and still have a respectable life expectancy on your motor.

i'd do a spacer and i.c. personally only if i planned on going to 15-20 psi or more.

i'm still considering an i.c. setup myself...it can be a nightmare to figure out and set up! i will use low comp pistons and better valves in my application, but i plan on having variable boost from 5-15 psi or so as well. i'm building the motor to make 250 at the wheel, but wont ever put that down on the streets.. thats just gonna be a dyno show-off number for me. longevity is my goal.

boosted motors can get pricey o build. Ferrea wants $50 a valve for my 600!! i haven't priced the 750 yet! thats $400 in one pop.

SI valves is probably who i'm going to use, and i'll sent the head to have it extrude honed. i love that stuff!

oh, since that turbo belonged to a workhorse of some sort, make sure that the bearings and all are still good. there should only be a few thousands of play in shaft wobble, both radial and axial. look on the inside of the scroll if you take it apart and look for scratches on the aluminum, bent fins, whatever. that should be a smooth radius from the inner flat of the inlet to the plane above the "exducer" or larger part of the compressor wheel. (inducers the smaller part of the wheel, exducer.. the larger)
theres alot of places that offer turbo rebuilding as well...somethign i'll have to do now since i had a racoon break into my shop and knock over my turbo, smashing the cold side into the ground and jaming the wheel up. ...little bustard. oh well.
and look for oil in the cold side thru the discharge pipe. if there is oil, or alot of black crap, you may have a seal leak, which will draw oil from the cartridge (turbo "body" and bearing assy) into the intake due to the vacuum generated behind the compressor wheel.

 

I will check everything else but as far as shaft play. That was the first think I checked. It has very minimal shaft play along the radius. and none vertically. I am very confident that my turbo was somewhat newer when the engine failed. The parts look very clean but I will double check everything. So that will help. But as far as boost, I dont ever plan to run more than 8lbs but I was concerned about it holding to redline based on the heat. Although it wont be as high it still wories me, as longevity is also my concern. I have an 06 636 and just want a street monster with the occasional track runs. I would like to get anywhere between 140-150whp. With a conservative tune. I really love turbo applications, as both of my cars are turbo. So still debating on the ic, but just to get it straight it would need to flow about 135cfm or so to actually help the application? And with pressure drop does that decrease the actual psi going into the intake? Just trying to get this down pat. I was thinking that pressure was pressure. And whatever psi was set would enter the intake just at different temps. Helping the hp gains stay constant and cool the engine?

 

Here are some pics for those of you who would like to drool ahead of time

 

Wow! Awesome info; Can't wait to see the results!

 

sweet pics! that turbo otta work out great! nice, easy exhaust flange patternand all..being a V-band clamp, you should be able to spin the turbine and compressor housings to whereever you need em to fit.. if you do need to spin the housings to help with charge and header alignment, you'll need to fab another wastegate mount up... no biggie tho.

ok. YES you will have a pressure drop. it has to be weighed against the effective temp drop induced in the charge air. i do not have a formula at this second, but will scour the earth in search of some.
basically tho, it wouldn't be worth dropping 100 degrees if you loose half your charge pressure!

intake temp is probably ( i would guess) exponentially proportional to charge pressure.
theres a ridiculous formula that needs the compressor efficiency and pressure ratio to calculate charge temps.

ok..you'd need the

-inlet (ambient) temp (T)..... for this we'll use 80 degrees F
-Pressure ratio(Pr)(from the other math post)..... we'll use 1.9
-compressor efficiency (Nc)..... we'll use 65%
y= some goofy factor in this book thats adirect function to the Pr (sorry thats lame)..... this is gonna be .199


ok then. first you need to get an "ideal" number from if the compressor was actually 100% efficient.
that ideal is...

T (ideal)= (460+T)x y

so (460+ 80) x .199 = 107.5 degrees

now, take that 107.5 and divide it by the compressor effeciency to get the rise in temp..

T(actual) = T(ideal) / Nc

so 107.5/.65 = 165.4

NOW...you gotta add the ambient to the freshly calculated actual.

so Tc = T+ T(actual)

so 80+ 165.4 = 245.4

there ya go.. lame *** setup.. i know, i wish i could put these lil tables and all up for ya.. maybe i can find a way..but your charge temp at a 65% effeciency and 1.9 times atmospheric pressure (roughly 12-14 psi) will be 245.4 degrees.

ok. yeah, thats really hot, but then again, all boosted motors will run hotter no matter what. that same temp from a blower (or turbo) at just 45% would be 319 degrees. i'd definitely intercool, then!

i'd call up turbonetics at (805) 581-0333 and see what they say. they carry spearco cores, air to air, air to water... you could get nuts there!

but anyways. yes sir, you will have a pressure drop, but at 8 psi, i don't think you'll have an overheating problem in my opinion to have to warrant i.c. use.


something else...
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/soluti...php?section=19

good stuff also.

once again, sorry the formula is shotty, but the numbers can be fudged for the curious, or the math geniuses here.

 

Ok so I looked at a great IC from Bell intercoolers. Its 1.25 thick and 5.9x6 lxw and flows aprox. 139cfm so I am wondering if that will workand what I can expect to gain from it if anything.

 

What do you think?

 

sorry ivhaven't been on my game.. holiday visiting and all... i.c. efficiencies can be from 0 to 100%+ ... real world tho, you should probably expect 35-70%

-ambient temp
-contrusction materail
-air flow

these are a few things that'll make an intercooler suck or rock.

mounting position is a big part of heat transfer, obviously... its just hard to find a good spot to mount them to where they're incon****uous.

physically, the i.c. you're looking at definitely seems small enough to put anywhewre you want, and it does flow enough, assuming you did your calculation at near-redline RPMs to compensate for the very highest flow you'll need. looks like a good deal to me bro!

i'm hoping that your "135" (for your flow requirement) is rounded up. i'm just too lazy to get my own rough number, but hell, that i.c flows 139... you only need 135... def a good size. you'll never use 135 cfm all the time as well, as you know. that flow requirement will only be in effect at the rpm used in your calculation, as its variable. you'll probably only use 100-120 or so, maybe less on street riding days and anything else other than full blown drag racing.

oh, and merry christmas/festivus/holidays/xmas/whathaveyou!!

be safe out there guys!