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Ready to do my first coolant flush. Any tips?

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Old Nov 16, 2019 | 09:23 PM
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Default Ready to do my first coolant flush. Any tips?

So I just got the klx 250s as my first bike from a local guy.

I recently noticed the reserve resivior is below the "low" line.. I was going to mix some antifreeze and add it but I decided if I'm even going to bother then I might as well change the whole thing.

So I have everything I need. But my main question is should I find a green antifreeze to replace it with or should I drain everything, flush with water, and replace with Kawasaki aluma cool which is blue?

If I did switch to the aluma cool, would just running water through the radiator hose be sufficient as a flush?

Thank you in advance for your response.
 
Old Nov 16, 2019 | 10:58 PM
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Put a pan under the bike when you go to drain it.



Ask the dealer about the Kaw anti-freeze. I'm betting no big deal.
 
Old Nov 25, 2019 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by klx678
Put a pan under the bike when you go to drain it.



Ask the dealer about the Kaw anti-freeze. I'm betting no big deal.
asked the dealer and they said go for it as long as I do a complete flush.. Probably going to use 2 or 3 jugs of distilled to cycle for about 30 seconds and then add the replacement coolant.
 
Old Nov 25, 2019 | 11:54 AM
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Also upon examination, I noticed my radiator louvers are broken and glued back together.. This took my attention to the radiator where I noticed there is some slight damage to the right (add coolant) side. Now I'm going to have to replace that too.. Any help on step by step directions to replace a radiator? Can you just do 1 side or do you have to do both? At this point I have everything I need to do a coolant flush. Ik m going to pick up a new (used) right side radiator. And maybe install a radiator guard while I'm at it.. I'm ok with turning bolts but it looks like theres a sensor that needs hooked up. Is this hard to do? Any specific tools I need? Plz help..

Thanks
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 01:36 AM
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Hmmmm 13 years still on the same original coolant, none lost, none added, and still on the original battery too. Now someone said we have oil in the engine that we need to change periodically? LOL
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by deej
Hmmmm 13 years still on the same original coolant, none lost, none added, and still on the original battery too. Now someone said we have oil in the engine that we need to change periodically? LOL
Honestly I dont know.. I bought the bike less than a month ago. Trying to sort it out. The guy said he changed the oil this year. And it hasnt had any valve work since hes owned it. What's wrong with the battery? Do you have any advice on my OP?

Thanks for the help!
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 01:12 PM
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I think Deej is talking about the coolant and battery in his own bike. If your battery is good, run it.
One of coolant's functions is anticorrosion. It should be changed every few years to protect the engine parts.
I use the green stuff (prestone). Either way, I've read it should be low or no silica as silica can damage the water pump seal.
The KLX can be a little finicky on purging air after a coolant flush. Take your time with it, lay the bike on its sides, etc. Get the air out of the system.
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
I think Deej is talking about the coolant and battery in his own bike. If your battery is good, run it.
One of coolant's functions is anticorrosion. It should be changed every few years to protect the engine parts.
I use the green stuff (prestone). Either way, I've read it should be low or no silica as silica can damage the water pump seal.
The KLX can be a little finicky on purging air after a coolant flush. Take your time with it, lay the bike on its sides, etc. Get the air out of the system.
Makes sense.. now one thing is turning into another since I noticed the radiator has a dent. Maybe I'll need to replace that too if squaring it up doesnt work.. fun.

I looked at the manual and it just says make sure no air is trapped after the flush. I know some bikes have a screw on the engine to bleed off trapped air but I couldnt find it in the manual.
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 01:58 PM
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There is one or maybe two bolts on this engine that will allow some air to bleed out. The manual doesn't address it, but I crack it open a little when purging air.
I think one is one the left towards the back.
I've also left the distilled water in longer than 30 seconds. It'll take more than 30 seconds for the fluid to warm enough to open the thermostat and circulate.

You'll want to get that damaged radiator checked and repaired if necessary. I'd pull it and take it to a radiator shop. Have them pressure test it and if it needs repair, check that cost vs a new one.
 
Old Nov 26, 2019 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
There is one or maybe two bolts on this engine that will allow some air to bleed out. The manual doesn't address it, but I crack it open a little when purging air.
I think one is one the left towards the back.
I've also left the distilled water in longer than 30 seconds. It'll take more than 30 seconds for the fluid to warm enough to open the thermostat and circulate.

You'll want to get that damaged radiator checked and repaired if necessary. I'd pull it and take it to a radiator shop. Have them pressure test it and if it needs repair, check that cost vs a new one.
thanks for the info. Any more direction on which bolt to crack to bleed air?
 



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