help!
#11
Alright I got home today with a lil day light to spare and time to kill. I pulled the tank (didn't even need a tool). And it is completely empty. I can see a lil surface rust in the tank. I also got the carbs off and they have stale gas in them. I was wondering if I could drain the oil and remove the filter and just fill it up with oil while I'm workin on the bike and then do another oil change and put filter in before I start the bike? Thanks again for all the help and knowledge. Any idea where I could get a repair manual?
#12
I suppose if you find much fuel in the oil, it is certainly not anything to worry a lot about. It could be expected in this case. Just be observant and when you do the next oil change look for it again. If there were lots of fuel in the oil, maybe the petcock was left open and there's a sticky float allowing fuel to just pour through the carb into the motor, which isn't good to run on but I doubt it will cause much if any problem on a motor that hasn't ran. I think the primary risk is poor lubrication from oil diluted with fuel.
You should be okay with just a little surface rust in the tank. I'd get some fresh fuel, pour a little in (maybe a pint), swish around well, and dump into a bucket and look for residue. Is there a little, or a lot? I'd expect a little. If there is a lot, keep rinsing and think about that fuel filter.
I would dump and fill the oil just once then get it running. I wouldn't do it twice. If the oil was real bad, after running for a while maybe change it again sooner than you would otherwise.
If the owner was trying to start the bike on old stale gas, it is no surprise it wouldn't start or run. I think this is actually a good sign to find some old stale gas in the carbs and little in the tank as it points to the fuel hopefully being the primary problem.
Sounds like things aren't too bad. Good for you!
Google search around for repair manuals. I just did for "kz305 repair manual" and saw several hits.
You should be okay with just a little surface rust in the tank. I'd get some fresh fuel, pour a little in (maybe a pint), swish around well, and dump into a bucket and look for residue. Is there a little, or a lot? I'd expect a little. If there is a lot, keep rinsing and think about that fuel filter.
I would dump and fill the oil just once then get it running. I wouldn't do it twice. If the oil was real bad, after running for a while maybe change it again sooner than you would otherwise.
If the owner was trying to start the bike on old stale gas, it is no surprise it wouldn't start or run. I think this is actually a good sign to find some old stale gas in the carbs and little in the tank as it points to the fuel hopefully being the primary problem.
Sounds like things aren't too bad. Good for you!
Google search around for repair manuals. I just did for "kz305 repair manual" and saw several hits.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 08-21-2015 at 12:00 AM.
#13
[QUOTE=IDRIDR;523597]I suppose if you find much fuel in the oil, it is certainly not anything to worry a lot about. It could be expected in this case. Just be observant and when you do the next oil change look for it again. If there were lots of fuel in the oil, maybe the petcock was left open and there's a sticky float allowing fuel to just pour through the carb into the motor, which isn't good to run on but I doubt it will cause much if any problem on a motor that hasn't ran. I think the primary risk is poor lubrication from oil diluted with fuel.
You should be okay with just a little surface rust in the tank. I'd get some fresh fuel, pour a little in (maybe a pint), swish around well, and dump into a bucket and look for residue. Is there a little, or a lot? I'd expect a little. If there is a lot, keep rinsing and think about that fuel filter.
Alright man. Thank you very much you have been awesome. To close off intake hole I took a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil over each hole and put the carb clamp on snug, I also have a rain resistant cover. Is that okay? Also there has been a in line filter put in between the petcock and carbs. So that's a plus. I will keep you updated and maybe a picture when she's back together. I can imagine I will be back with more noob questions. But thanks for what knowledge you have supplied!
You should be okay with just a little surface rust in the tank. I'd get some fresh fuel, pour a little in (maybe a pint), swish around well, and dump into a bucket and look for residue. Is there a little, or a lot? I'd expect a little. If there is a lot, keep rinsing and think about that fuel filter.
Alright man. Thank you very much you have been awesome. To close off intake hole I took a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil over each hole and put the carb clamp on snug, I also have a rain resistant cover. Is that okay? Also there has been a in line filter put in between the petcock and carbs. So that's a plus. I will keep you updated and maybe a picture when she's back together. I can imagine I will be back with more noob questions. But thanks for what knowledge you have supplied!
#15
Thanks man. I'm on the right track with you knowledge. After checking the tank for crud and with hopes of positive results should I fill the tank up with fuel? I got into the bowl of one carbs with good results nothing seems gummed up maybe a lil tarnish. Will the oem jets have a k stamped on them with a number?
#17
Thanks man. I am new to this so this might be a dumb ? Buy what are the needle and seats exactly? And by rebuild you mean full rebuild or jus jets and float needle?
Last edited by price2011; 08-22-2015 at 04:59 PM.
#18
part 16030 in this parts listing https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...rburetor-parts
A groove will form on the sealing cone and cause oil and gas logged issues in the case. That is normally what happens after any period of time and needs replaced.
A groove will form on the sealing cone and cause oil and gas logged issues in the case. That is normally what happens after any period of time and needs replaced.
#20
I think that you have the gas in oil licked from what idridr has mentioned and from our conversation.
Although, I prefer a leak down test over a compression test. Which tells you more on the valve condition as well as the cylinder and ring conditions.
Although, I prefer a leak down test over a compression test. Which tells you more on the valve condition as well as the cylinder and ring conditions.