Durielk, I tested the spark by removing the spark plug from the motor and putting it back in the ignition cap, then resting it against the case so that when I press the starter (electric start only) I can see the spark. Is this what you were asking?

Since posting I hitchhiked to Portland, borrowed a van and picked up the bike. I now have a few garage days but am still unsure what to do. I removed the left side starter cover and removed the starter idle gear, (part 30976 in this https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/...or-580419.aspx ) teeth looked fine and no shavings or metal flakes visible. Checking the valve clearances next and will update, thank you all for your help so far! Has anyone had similar issues with an ignition coil maybe?

 

"Engine will not turn over" Means different things to different people.
When I read that to me it means the engine physically will not rotate.
Others read that and think it means Engine will not start but physically rotates.

Can you explain what you mean by the Engine will not turn over?


I am with Durielk, how can you check spark when the motor will not physically turn over?

 

Initial symptoms were that the bike would not start via electric start but could bump start, run poorly for 10 mins such as not hold idle, then run okay but throttle would lag returning to idle.

Then while riding, engine shut off, and starter motor would not turn the engine. It made a sound like the starter motor couldn't spin or could not turn the engine. I was physically unable to rotate the engine with a wrench on the side of the highway but now am able to do so and the compression stroke feels normal. Does that make sense?

 

Oh, I think I understand what you're saying, I worded that poorly. The engine does physically turn over.

I just checked my valves and exhaust is within spec and intake is at 0 I cannot even fit a .038 mm feeler in between and there is a small amount of super fine metal flake around the cam lobe. So shim time? Would it be a bad idea to test the starter motor/spark as I described earlier by pulling the plug or wait until the proper shims are installed?

Thanks again.

 

OK, the starter does rotate the crank. The part I had a problem with was 59051, on the engine side, the casting that the 59051 rotates in was all bashed & jammed. And my starter would NOT turn the engine over. I don't think that is your problem.

Since you have a spark, I think your problem is a clogged carb. Was it sitting with fuel in it for a long time without riding?

I don't think it is serious problem, just a PITA.

 

Riding every day for the last month, just finished the trans America trail so hasn't sat for longer than 8 hours. I saw this thread http://https://www.kawasakiforums.co...s-fixes-43146/
For carb issues, but still concerned about the zero clearance on the intake valves and the metal flakes around those cam lobes. Any suggestions on how to figure out proper shim size? Very new to all this!

 

Newt,
Did the bike ever run low on oil? I'd also be concerned about the metal flakes also and would inspect very carefully.

There's a FAQ link in my sig line, below. Go there and search "shim" and/or "valve adjust" and I think you'll find some good answers. https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...acement-35136/

 

Great thread IDRIDR, thank you. It's possible I ran low at some point but I did carry a quart with me and checked the sight glass every other morning and topped up when needed. I did notice that for the last 800 miles of the trip it was consuming a bit more oil than ever before.

 

How many miles you have on the bike?

 

11,000 now purchased with 4,000.