Now :
DG slip on
132 main jet
38 pilot jet
2.5 turns out
Smog stuff gone.




Alright. Got it done and took it for a spin. One thing I noticed was it seemed to start easier and warm up quicker. So that's a plus. As far as decel popping goes. It is definitely greatly reduced. Only a pop here or there. Now mostly just a rumble while slowing down. So that is good.

Now for power. I didn't really notice the bike pulling any harder than before. Actually almost felt less but could be mental I guess. It did run good and idled good at red lights. But before today I wasn't really getting any black soot around the muffler tip to speak of. Another reason why I was leaning towards the thought of it running a fuzz lean. Now the tip is starting to show some color. Not excessive but I went for maybe a 15 mile ride hitting all the gears and all the rpm ranges.

But now I'm left wondering if it is good as is or if maybe the 128 main and a kdx snorkel would be optimal for my set up.

Good news is I am getting quicker at wrenching on it so I got that going for me which is nice.

Lenman

 

Another thing I forgot to mention was it almost seemed to favor the higher rpm range if that makes sense. I font know what exactly it means. All this carb stuff is new to me but I'm trying to learn it all.

 

Firstly, congrats on performing a setup change successfully.

Ok, did you set the fuel screw to midway between idle drops? If not, do so - With the bike hot and idling, slowly turn the fuel screw out until the idle drops, then in until it drops again, then back out to the midway point between the drops..

The "sooting" can occur when you ride with lots of snaps to WOT. The CVK carb will "jolt" the engine with a small slug of air/fuel mix when snapping WOT from a low to mid RPM.. It kinda simulates an accelerator pump and is necessary - otherwise you'd get a big bog..

About favoring the top end and loss of midrange power - Once the top end is fueled (more) correctly, it "comes alive" which can make the mid range seem weaker..

If, after more riding, you're sure it isn't any more powerful above 6.5k @ WOT (wide open throttle) AND you're positive that the midrange (4-6.5K) is weaker @ WOT, then the 132 isn't helping you - so back to 128/3N or 128/4N..

If the top end is better but midrange is definitely down on power - you could go 132/2N.. (That is the second "notch" down from the top of the needle..)

Main jet size affects fueling from 3-3.5k to redline. Needle clip position affects midrange fueling 3-3.5k to 6-6.5k.. They work together in the midrange - For instance: Given 3N, a 128 will be leaner and a 132 richer, from about 3k to redline.. Given a main jet of 132, 2n will be leaner and 3N will be richer, from about 3k to about 6k..

 

Thanks. I put on the muffler and the first incarnation of the dynojet kit myself as well. But simply followed the instructions line for line.

But to answer your question about the pilot screw. No I didnt go in the middle. I actually called every bike shop in town and no one had a tool to do it with and I don't have anything I can get in there while its running. So with the stock pilot DJ said 3 turns out and with me going to the 38, I tried 2.5 turns out. Next step is to get that tool ordered I spose. I couldn't find the actual kawi one anywhere and heard people having problems with the motion pro. So I'm still trying to figure that one out.

Lenman

 

I use this.. that is a piece of really tight fitting hose around it.. It ain't easy or fun, but you don't have to do this very often at all..

 

Alright cool. I got bits for years. I can try that. Thank you

 

Hey All, this is a great thread for me to ask my question on. I have a 2007 KLX250s, it has the Dynojet Kit, a K&N air filter, snorkel removed, and a two brothers exhaust. This was all put on by the previous owner, so while I can not comment exactly to all the Dynojet pieces in the carb, I believe everything should be set up according to the "stage 2" setup, I think, with the exception of the main jet. I looked at the Dynojet kit the previous owner gave me, and the 128 jet is still in the kit, and the 132 jet is not, so I assume he had the 132 jet installed. While my bike runs pretty well, I wouldn't say it's overly powerful like I think it should be, plus the gas mileage is HORRIBLE (I get about 56 mpg, where as my cousin who has a stock 2006 KLX250s gets more like, idk, 80 or 90 mpg). So, I am wondering if it's worth pulling the carb apart, checking to see how many turns the screw is out, and maybe setting it all up exactly as Dynojet says the stage 2 setup should be with the 128 jet?

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated! As I said, it runs pretty good, maybe i'm just hoping for more power from it then it will ever have????

 

I can help you with this. Firstly, what is the altitude you need your carb set up for?

 

I would say the majority of the riding I do is between 300ft and 1500 ft. Get into the hills sometimes where i'm around 2,000 ft, but normally around 800 ft I would say.

 

OK, if you want to run standard stage II then you'll have to pull the carb to:
1. Check the float level 17mm +- 2mm
2. Check that the needle clip is on the needle at the 3rd notch down.
3. Assuming the pilot jet is stock (#35), set fuel screw to 3 turns out.
4. Assuming he used the #2152 kit, make sure the DJ slide spring is installed.( It is shorter than the stock spring.)
5. Decide whether to use the 128 or the 132. The 128 is standard. The 132 is included in the kits but without documentation for its' use. A quick call to DJ - ask for a jetting specialist - should resolve this issue..
6. I always check the pilot jet and needle jet for clogs/restrictions. They have many tiny holes and all must be functional.

Realize that it is very possible to screw this up based on your skill set and competency. https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-fixes-43146/