It idles at 1800 consistently, but after riding it for about 45 minutes yesterday it started idling a little higher at 2500-2800. It seems like a pretty high idle but maybe it was because I was pushing it hard? Or maybe its because I set the idle correctly for 5 minutes of riding in the cold winter and not 45 minutes of it.

Is that a symptom of running rich? Or is my idle screw just not set correctly. That was what kind of made me start realizing all the other little things

Also It now smells like normal exahust, before it seemed to be running pretty lean.

However, it did seems to softly backfire (a single quiet pop sound) when shutting it off, but that was the only time it "backfired".

(The gas smell mentioned was not from the bike btw, I left the gas can in the garage right next to it, DOPE!)

 

Spec idle speed is 1,300 +/- 50 rpm.
With the stock carb, my bike's idle speed would increase after being warmed up. I have to fiddle with my idle speed now an then based on temperature and elevation.
What you describe could also be a lean condition, I think.
A fast idling motor will sometime backfire a little when shut off.

 

Scott, what could cause it to be running lean if it's stock?

Kotch, you got the snorkel and lid on? Slip-on back on? Was there a change in elevation from where you bought it?

 

First things that come to mind for lean conditions, besides opened airbox without adjusting jetting which I think OP said was stock, could be a partially plugged pilot jet or other carb port, a float level issue, or an air leak (discussed earlier I believe, with trying WD40 to find something).

kotch: Get the bike idling at the spec rpm and fully warm. In neutral or clutch lever pulled it, when you give the throttle a quick twist and release, does the idle 'hang' for a bit before dropping back down to normal idle speed? Does it make a difference if you hold the faster speed for a second or two instead of just blipping the throttle? A hanging idle can be a lean indicator. Know also that this can be normal for a stock KLX and some of us will remove the EPA cap from the idle mix adjusting screw (aka fuel screw) and back it out to around two turns out to make it a little richer on the idle circuit. We should have guided you to doing this when you had the carb out.

If you haven't found it already, spend some time perusing this thread: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...q-links-30733/

Under my post #20 you'll find a number of good threads on the CVK carb.

 

So, do you know whether or not the needle is stock? Is the A/F screw cover missing? If so dial it back in all the way, then back it out 2 turns to start. Those 2 things will give you an idea of how much monkeying went on with the carb before you got it.
Have you hooked up some clear tube to the bowl and checked float level?
Definitely get the idle back to 13-1500.
From the factory, the carb should run through the gears with ease. Your bike seems much better but not quite right. Maybe it was just the high idle...
Now's a good time to add an inline filter, if you haven't already.
I can provide you stock carb parts to try, if needed. Too bad we are not closer, I'd ride down with them.

 

^ and check pilot and main jet sizes.

 

Yup, exactly what is happening. Also, I'm going to leave it how it is because I have a lot of upgrades on the list for Xmas (dyno jet stage 2, powercore 4 slip on, and I will take off the airbox lid). I think I was just nervous when I started it back up, but it was running so lean before that I noticed a change in smell. I think it just went from very lean to stock lean.

I did read everyone's comments though! If I think I have problems after the mods then I will post here again, until then, thank you all for you're help! You guys are very friendly and I will definitely be seen around this forum again!