How to change countershaft seal

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  #1  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:52 AM
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Default How to change countershaft seal

There's a YT video showing it can be done from the outside fairly easy; at least on a Super Sherpa. Is the procedure the same for our bikes?

Should I drain the oil first? Logic says the oil will come pouring out if I don't.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:37 AM
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If the oil is still pretty fresh and you don't want to change it, just lay the bike over on the right side so you won't loose oil. Not saying this is right or wrong, just another option. Personally, I always do it right, dump and change oil and filter while I'm at it.
 
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:02 PM
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I can drain and reuse the oil, easier than laying the bike over actually.

So changing the seal then is the same as in the YT video ?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPuHlc-tCaw


I just ordered one from Partzilla and a friend of a friend is bringing it here for my mid August
 
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:20 PM
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I don't know how far over the bike would have to be leaned, who knows, measure from the ground up to the oil level in the window and see if it is higher than the seal. If you can prop the bike up straight enough or lean it over a bit bar end against a wall with tires blocked so it won't roll and fall over the seal may just be above oil level. Might save draining. If I had to drain and the oil was still fairly new I'd certainly use it.

As for the work, has to be pretty much the same. Pull steel spacer, pry out the seal without damaging stuff, pull O-ring, put in new O-ring, tap in seal with some pipe or socket that will fit over shaft and rest on the outside of the seal if it doesn't slide in as easy as that one did. I've not had too many go in like that... press it in with my thumbs.

I find it interesting that bearing in the video is either sealed or shielded... the outer seal and O-ring does that. Most I've dealt with were open. No big deal, just interesting.
 

Last edited by klx678; 07-24-2015 at 01:23 PM.
  #5  
Old 07-25-2015, 03:56 AM
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You can carefully screw a 1" or so drywall screw into the side of the seal and pry out with pliers to help remove the old seal. I've done many this way. Much easier than digging at it with something else. I always wipe a little grease in between the lips on the new seal before installing. Just make sure that shaft doesn't have any nicks or sharp burrs on it, and clean it very good before sliding new seal over it. Be very careful going over those splines not to nick or tear the seal. Should be a quick and easy job.
 
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Old 07-25-2015, 07:20 AM
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Good info gang. Glad I asked.

I have the O ring but neglected to order the seal...it'll be here mid August
 
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:34 PM
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You might be able order from an industrial supplier, by the size numbers on the seal if there is a source close by. Most have the ID x OD x width or OD x ID x width - I forget which comes first. It will be obvious.
 
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Old 07-27-2015, 07:54 AM
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Right now it's just some drops keeping the chain oiled automatically. Oddly enough the oil level hasn't changed much at all..

Just 3 weeks til it gets here. I ordered 2 just in case...(!)
 

Last edited by Richard Avatar; 07-27-2015 at 07:58 AM.
  #9  
Old 07-27-2015, 11:58 AM
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The information was good for me, I think the seal on my 550 is leaking and just knowing it works for sure and a reminder about the O-ring is worth it too.
 
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:35 PM
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ive done this alot on smaller engines, I would assume its the same on larger ones
after draining oil
I would use small drill bit if a pick didnt pull it out

then use the pick in the small hole you drill, pretty easy everytime ive done them
sometimes ive used tiny screwdriver too, just dont mess up the metal on the engine as it could mess up the new seal or how it seals

and use same size socket slowly press and tap in the new one
I usually oil around it before sliding in as a lube
 
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