Thanks to everybody.
I installed the brand new driven clutch and the deceleration issue has now gone.

I dismantled the new driven clutch and coated the sliding surface with a dry moly lubricant and let it cure for eight hours before I put it back together and installed it.

 

Good day

Would you mind sharing with me the part # for the Driven Clutch that you changed two years ago on your 2008 Kawasaki Diesel Mule?

 

Sure. Happy to help. Just give me until this evening Australian time and I'll get The Workshop Manual out with the information you have requested and post it for you.

 

Have the handbrake on and the machine chocked. With the drive belt removed, grab the outer sheave of the driven clutch. You can rotate the outer sheave and it will move away from the inner sheave as you rotate it.It rotates about 40 degrees. Once you have rotated it away from the inner sheave, wiggle it to see what play there is on the shaft. This play is what causes the Mule to decelerate. With load on it, the play won’t allow the outer sheave to rotate itself back to the home position that lets the CVT free wheel.
The sheave jams on the shaft when you release the throttle.With the driven clutch removed, the sheave bushing inside diameter should be:-Standard 39.365mm – 39.965mm. The Service Limit is 40mm. There are two bushings. I replaced both.Before you reassemble the driven clutch, recheck the measurements on the new bushings once you have installed them. Mine were already over the service limit even with the new bushings installed because of a machining error on the driven clutch that Kawasaki won’t admit to.The large spring in there has a service limit length of 130.4mm, and one end of the spring must be maintained to + or – 10 degrees from the other end.You would also replace the three nylon pulley shoes in there too. On the Partzilla website:-https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ka...ter-drive-belt
The two bushings are Part Number 92139 1078.The spring is Part Number 92145 0047.The three nylon shoes are Part Number 49048 1097.

 

Thanks !

So you didn't really change the entire Driven Clutch (part # 49094-0090)?

Just the spring 92145-0047, two bushings 92139-1078 and three nylon shoes 49048-1097?

 

So you didn't really change the entire Driven Clutch (part # 49094-0090)?

Just to limit any confusion. I removed and rebuilt both the driven and drive clutches. I was shattered after reassembling everything only to discover that I had not fixed the problem.

So I had to have another go at it. I removed everything again. That is when I discovered that despite replacing the two bushes inside the driven clutch with new ones, that the new ones were already over their service limit when I measured them after pulling everything apart again. If I had of been smart, I should have remeasured the service limit of the new bushings once I had installed them but before putting everything back in place.

You live and you learn as they say.

That's when I discovered that there were some machining issues with the driven clutches and replacing the bushes wasn't going to fix the problem. Next another person mentioned to me that they had a similar problem but managed to have their driven clutch built up and re-machined. I later discovered that this repair had subsequently failed.

In answer to your question:- After the first hiccup and not being able to fix the problem, yes I eventually replaced the driven clutch with a brand new one purchased as a complete unit. I don't have my Factory Workshop Manual for my 4010 in front of me at the moment so I am unable to confirm the part number that you have quoted. However, I did partially dismantle the new driven clutch before installing it, but only to coat the moving surfaces with a dry Moly Lubricant that required 8 hours to set. Coating the parts with a Dry Film Moly Lubricant was suggested on several sites and in You Tube clips I'd reviewed to learn about the CVT.

The book says that the sheaves where the belt run must be surgically clean, so remember that if you work on your CVT. I used Acetone to clean the four sheaves on mine before closing things up.

After several years my Mule is fine. There have been no more transmission issues. The charging system failed on it one time. It was the single smaller wire that plugs into the alternator. Where the factory had used cable ties to fasten this wire to the frame as it goes through the firewall? This wire had broken there, but the break was hidden by the insulation. I found the break totally by chance, but it was a 5 minute repair.

My Mule is used several times daily.

Another hint if you want your Mule bonnet to glow - buy some Plexus. Follow then instructions and use that on it.