I worked on my kart again yesterday... I changed all the o-rings on the tubes between each carburators has they were leaking big time...

Started the engine for around five minutes everything worked fine... The vacuum switch valve on the valve cover was not blocked off and the air box was not on... So later I blocked off the vaccum thing and reinstalled the air box (must of been at least an hour later) The engine started flooding and would not start no more... Only way to get it started was to flood it then unplug the pump and keep cranking...

On each carburators, where the air box is attached, there is a little hole for air it think (can't remember the name of it) and gas squirts out of them like if you poked a hole in the cap of a plastic soft drink bottle and pressed on it... sometimes shoots up to a foot of distance...

All 4 carbs did it, sometimes at the same time, often 2 at a time, other times just one... took the carbs back off, the floats don't seem to fill up with gas, and when you blow thru the fuel inlet tube holding the empty carbs normal side up, air passes, then turn them upside down so gravity closes the needles and air flow stops...

The fuel pump is brand new I just bought it last week, could it be pushing too much pressure (bought with engine model)??? I tried it again by unblocking the vacuum switch valve again and taking out the air box but didn't change nothing... Like stated before, starts without the pump once flooded and don't run good... I have spark too... I didn't check voltage could it be not enough spark voltage??? (probably first thing I'll try once I get to where the kart is now...)

Engine is a '95 kawazaki zx-7

 

How did you set your float heights? And per the manual for that model?

Although, I normally have everything back on the ride prior to synchronizing as well.

 

I haven't adjusted the height of the floats... I figured at first it went well so should of been alright... Guess I'll give it a look...

I actually didn't undo no adjustment at all on the carbs, the throttle butterfly valve are the only ones I had to undo to separate the carbs from each other... Could it be they are too closed or opened???

 

sounds like the carbs need to be synchiced now. If you didn't mess with the floats they should be set right.

 

To synchronize the throttle butterfly valves the manual book only said to eye ball them so they have the same gaps and then set RPM to 1***Rpm (can remember right now...) So I closed them completely and started the engine and then turn the **** on the cable on the #4 carb...

Is this a good way to do it or is it really to turn each screw???

 

what!? Hmm.

thats a horrible and inaccurate way to sync.

you'll wan't to secure a manometer for a GOOD synch.

mechanical or mercury.. doesn't really matter.

theres alot of gauge flutter that mech gauges hate, but the way to do it is bring the motor up to temp, then bring the revs to a steady 4-5krpm and hold it there and sync at that rpm.
smoother power and engine running that way, and more uniform flow, closer intake pulses.. much MUCH easier to sync.

match the levels on #1 to #2, then from #3 to #4, THEN #2 to #3.
adjust speed as needed. it'll speed up as you sync and open the plates up on other carbs.

when you're matching 2 to 3, 1 and 4 should follow .

most manufacturers like to see the numbers within a CM or so on a mercury gauge. syncing at 5k, you can easily achieve +/- 1MM. i've done it.

any questions, post up!!

good luck

 

This is getting too technical for me... I shipped it to the dealer, they'll have fun with it...

Told me they'd work on it tomorrow...