ok.. as some of ya's know, i am currently getting the blueprints and all finished up on the 7.

i think i may do an EFI conversion now on top of everything else just for the tunability factor of it..

i've been spying some rather technologically rich forums, and have learned a few tricks now thati have to test, and ultimately, share with my fellow riders and tuners.

i have learned now how to "map" cylinder blow-by by using a flowmeter on the crankcase. at some point in the RPM, the blowby past the rings will triple or go up 5 fold, caused by "ring flutter".. basically, th pressure can't get behind the rings fast enough to seal the piston. trimming the 2nd ring a few thousandths in gap will raise the RPM this occurs.

Gas porting of thepistons is used to alleviate this problem, as well as a crank scraper, windage tray, or blocking off the skirt-squirters..

i also learned the JE has to custom-make my low-comp slugs. at an estimated "high 5, low 6" price.. but still, shouldn't be more than low $600's from what they told me. they also can get carillo rods!! good deal.. eh?

i was doing some reading on lock-up clutches. i was gonna make one, but F that. some of these racer guys are breaking their levers to try and disengage the clutch.

while us 7-R ridershave hydraulics on our side, we can risk system failure, seal blowing, or lever breakage as well at high-RPM clutch actuation...

for those of ya who've neva heard of a lock-up clutch..... basically its a regular clutch assembly with a modified pressure plate. of course, the more pressure the pressure plate applies to the disc pack, the harder it will grip, allowing for more power transfer without slippage.

the modified plate has 3-6 weighted (adjustable) arms on it that pivot and as RPMs increase, the centrifugal force of these weights applies pressure (exponentially[non-linear], i believe) to the plate, in turn applying many more poungds of force on binding the disc pack to the bascket and hub assembly.
unfortunately with this, the harder it pushes on the internals of the clutch, the more it fights you, since you're pulling it in the opposite way the force it making it go.. thus the lever breakage.

this only occurs at mid and high RPM tho....(of course.. more revs... more centrifugal pressure... more applied force to plate... more force needed to disengage plate..)

so.. scratch the lockup...lol

probably not gonna do the gas ported slugs, but will soon map when my peak blowby occurs..

on the EFI.. not sure what bike i will steal it from.. got alot of research to do. maybe a 636 might work, and using 10-R injectors @ 70% duty cycle or so..

i plan on using a wideband to tune, and for the pretty lights.
i am currently whittling out some kleen air block-offs and some other parts out of 6061.. when they're done, i'll get some pics up.. might make a new valvecover, trigger coil coverwith quick-access panel, crankcase vent area cover, and an adjustable coil mount for timing changes.

OH.. BTW guys.. our cams are F'in pressed on... if i figure out a way to get around buying the $180. muzzy adjustable cam kit, i'll offer that for cheap, if its not too tricky..

will be pricing valves and other parts shortly..

i'll keep ya posted on what it takes to make a 2000 ZX7-R make 250 WHP!!

 

250RWHP you say???? Oo
hmmmmmmmm

are you bending all the tubes and everything yourself? everything from scratch except for the turbo? and what kind of turbo? sizes? brand? BB?

I have an AEM WB gauge and Bosch LSU4 WB (I wore it out in ~5 months)
Love the AEM
good luck with the build!!
wear your depends and dont forget to strap your ***** down when you ride!
VIDs or Die!!

 

lmfao.... i'll have gutchies on stand-by..

yeah.. i'm shooting for 250ish @ 15psi..
may get more, may get less.. 15psi doubles any power, so at 123 stock (supposedly) that'll gimme 246 at the crank.. but i want 250 at the wheel..

the piping... i will actually cut apart and modify a 7-R header (stainless aftermarket piece if i can find one..)

already plasma-cut my flanges out of 3/8 T-304

with the headers..
i did it to my 600 with much success and perfect fitment and turbo placement.

the turblow is a Mitsubishi TDO4-L, standard trim (whatever that number is..) .60A/R, polished cold side, stock wastegate. 360 CFM@15psi.

my requirement is only 149.?? (150 lol) @ 10,000RPM.. its overkil, really...

i'll run a variable boost setup that will peak at 20psi, probably 9.5:1 JE slugs, carillo rods, clevite bearings, aeromotive rising rate FPR, HKS SSQV b.o.v. if i can find one, or just any ol' RFL blow off until then..

if efi goes in (more than likely) i'll do a power commander. maybe..
i might go the REAL oddball way and do a GReddy or AEM standalone.. just for gits and shiggles.. just to say i have it, basically.

i just installed a GReddy e-Manage on a 3S-GTE powered '91 MR-2.. its an EASY install..

you got me worried about the O2 now... how'd you wear it out!!!! i don't wanna drop 400+ on an AEM EUGO and have the bitch burn up on me...lol

anyway.. i'll build a crank scraper and windage tray, and try to mount the turbo to gravity feed w/o a scavenger. i'll run another oil cooler as well.

reading up on back-cutting the trans.. i've seen good and bad.. i may just leave it alone..

i wanna do ceramic wheel bearings but damn, they're pricey.

i think thats it.. lol probably not. its a never ending list now...

 

I wish there was some way to have constant pressure in the cylinder so that the rings will always have pressure and seal so less blowby, but I dont know what I'm talking about.

My Bosch LSU4 WB sensor was ALWAYS on my car (installed) so ya, of course its going to die (especially from going super lean to super rich all the time) lol
The life is only rated at like 1000 hours or something (I cant remember exactly).

The AEM + Bosch WB was like $350 off Ebay (brand new in box never opened)
A Bosch LSU4 WB is only like $50 (NIB) you have NOTHING to worry about!

 

lmao.. you don't know what you're talking about? i think we know a lil better than that, man!!

you could probably teach me a few things..

i def think i'm doing the AEM wideband.. if i can get a dea on one, i'll be happy. i switched out the metering on that MR-2 to a UEGO, maybe the customer will give it to me for my troubles, since it really wasn't my job to do anything else but wire the GReddy computerup. i ended up porting and polishing the turbo, exhaust manifold and did a rack of other crap.

still in its infancy.. we'll see here shortly.

 

Sounds like one sick ride! Don't be teasing me like this. I'm very new to motorcycles, I used to race mustangs and I've had every power adder you can imagine. Now I look at my bike and think......"How cool would a 1988 750R with a turbo be?" Or "hmmm....I have these extra NOS bottles......." and my brother in laws favorite...."what if I took the turbo, added this intercooler from the SVO, injected nitrous into it to cool the charge...." LOL

 

nothing wrong with a little boost + n20 !!!!
hey, nitrous Loves compression and (turbo) boost doesnt like it... so it evens out!

 

absolutely!!!!

lol

TRR... yeah man, i've done that with pretty much everything i've ever owned.. lol.. it never stays stock or unmolested mechanically.

turbos like nitrous.. nitrous expands very rapidly, and this spolls up turbos instantly. goooood stuff!!!



hooefully i'll be postin some pics here soon.. i make some nice billet kleen air blockoff plates today and milled out the kleen air reed pockets on my valve cover, removed the reeds as well (lighter).. might play with them and figure i MAY be able to make an oil scavenger out of them!.. might have to shell mill them and polish to get a better seal, but hey, they're free.. its worth the experimenting time since i F off at work and make stuff for me all day!! [8D] they don't know that tho... (shhh...)

nothin like getting paid to make your own crap tho!!

 

HEY! i **** off too!

 

its the greatest. eclipsed only by sleeping on the job.