Removing Wheels 2005 ZX-10R
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1
Removing Wheels 2005 ZX-10R
I just got done removing/replacing my wheels so the local bike shop could mount some Michelin Pilot Powers. I'm not a die hard motorcycle guy, so this was new to me and I did a bunch of searching and ended up piecing together enough help to get the job done. Figured I would put all the info in one place.
1. Lifting the bike:
Buy the stands. I used Pit Bull. Super easy. Support points are on either side of the bike just in front of the axle bolt in the back and between the brake caliper and front axle bolt in the front. Some posts said you could use the hollow frame supports that go all the way through the bike (like putting some threaded rod or similar through) then using a jack and jack stands to lift from the ground or a come along to lift from the top. I could see this working, but there seems to be a risk of screwing this up. Also saw a suggesting to lift from the bottom center of the bike where our exhaust is. I can't imagine why anyone would risk this. Stands can also double for winter storage.
You have to lift the bike before removing the wheels.
2. Removing wheels:
Buy the right tools. On my '05 the front bolt is 22mm and the rear nut is 27mm. Normal depth sockets are sufficient and probably preferred. You'll want the sockets that work with 1/2" socket tool. 3/8" are made but you'll be lucky to find them in stock anywhere. I read that you need that large hex wrench for the other side of the front axle. NOT TRUE. Buy a 1/2" torque wrench. Sears had one for $80. A bit steep but still less than paying someone to remove my wheels. You'll also need a 6mm hex wrench. I had one that fits onto a socket wrench. I highly suggest this as you can then torque correctly later on. Needle nose pliers or similar to remove the cotter pin from the back axle nut. All threads including those on the calipers are traditional. Lefty loosey righty tighty.
Rear:
Support wheel with a couple 2x4's on the ground. Remove cotter pin. Remove nut that you just freed up (washer also). Push on axle bolt and watch it come out the other side. Try to keep track of the orientation of the aluminum spacer that makes contact with the chain tensioner. Move tire forward a bit to remove chain, then back to remove caliper. Rear caliper will slide backwards and free up. Do not stress the brake line. Roll wheel back and away from the bike. You may or may not have to remove the 2x4's first. There are two different types of spacers on either side of the wheel that you will need to not lose. Remove them and clean them up. They are different so pay attention to which side they came off of. Our rear tires are wide enough that you can lay the tire down on the brake disc side and not worry about the disk touching the floor.
Front:
Support wheel as you did the rear. Use the 6mm hex wrench to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front fork. These keep the axle bolt from moving. Do not loosen the other side that holds on the flat "nut" with the 22mm hole that looks like it would accept a hex wrench. Put your 22mm socket on the axle bolt and loosen completely and pull out. Remove both front brake calipers from the point where they attach to the frame. 2 hex bolts each. The Pit Bull stands had a place to rest the calipers. Way cool. Some instructions said to remove some of the front plastics. I didn't have to do this. Later you may want to loosen the hex nuts and remove the nut on the bottom of the fork that you didn't loosen yet. Might not be necessary though. Once the calipers are free the tire should just roll off the front. There are also spacers on the front (identical on each side) that should be removed and cleaned.
Now take your wheels to the local bike shop and have them mount/balance your new tires. Mine did this for free since I bought the tires from them.
3. Replacing wheels.
I suppose I should have mentioned above that you'll want some axle grease and some chain lube to finish this. Axle grease is optional, but if you get your stuff all dirty you'll want to clean and apply a light coating of grease. I don't think the wheels rotate on the parts we remove but the grease will help protect against the elements. Several places said it is important to not mix greases.
Rear:
You basically just reverse the removal process. Check that your tire was mounted with the directional arrow going the right way. Make sure the lines on those aluminum spacers are lining up with the same marks on either side of the frame. Make sure you replace the wheel spacers as well. I lightly coated them and the bolt before replacing. I think I did put on the chain before replacing the caliper, but I suspect either way would work. I made sure the aluminum spacers were simply in the same place, but this is probably a good time to check chain tension. You'll remember from the removal that the rear caliper is held on by a combination of slide rail and axle bolt. Tighten to 80 ft lbs. If the spacings for the cotter pin don't line up, tighten to the next space.
Front:
Again, we are going to reverse the removal process. Make sure you put the wheel on such that the tire's directional arrows are going the right way. Make sure you don't strip your front axle bolt. When you have it threaded correctly you'll get several turns without significant resistance (assuming the tire is supported correctly). I actually partially mounted the calipers on the wheel again to get better alignment. I lowered and raised the bike about 3 times before I started torquing down on the front axle bolt to make sure everything settled correctly. I then torqued down to 94 ft lbs. Front caliper hex bolts are tightened to 25 ft lbs. Front axle clamps (hex bolts at bottom of front forks) are tightened to 15 ft lbs. All of my torque numbers came from an 06-07 service manual. I couldn't find an 05.
Lube your chain. Make sure the front and rear discs don't grab on the the brake pads. I heard more contact than I did with car brake pads, but things seemed ok when I went for a ride. Lower your bike. I think you are done. Test your brakes. Check your fluids. Check your calipers after riding around a bit to make sure the discs aren't getting over heated.
Use common sense. You are responsible for yourself when working on your bike. If you are not comfortable with this, take your bike to the repair shop. I have provided guidelines to help with wheel removal/replacement but I am not a mechanic or in any way authorized to provide instruction or perform the work that I described. I am also not responsible in any way for the results you obtain. Have fun and be safe.
1. Lifting the bike:
Buy the stands. I used Pit Bull. Super easy. Support points are on either side of the bike just in front of the axle bolt in the back and between the brake caliper and front axle bolt in the front. Some posts said you could use the hollow frame supports that go all the way through the bike (like putting some threaded rod or similar through) then using a jack and jack stands to lift from the ground or a come along to lift from the top. I could see this working, but there seems to be a risk of screwing this up. Also saw a suggesting to lift from the bottom center of the bike where our exhaust is. I can't imagine why anyone would risk this. Stands can also double for winter storage.
You have to lift the bike before removing the wheels.
2. Removing wheels:
Buy the right tools. On my '05 the front bolt is 22mm and the rear nut is 27mm. Normal depth sockets are sufficient and probably preferred. You'll want the sockets that work with 1/2" socket tool. 3/8" are made but you'll be lucky to find them in stock anywhere. I read that you need that large hex wrench for the other side of the front axle. NOT TRUE. Buy a 1/2" torque wrench. Sears had one for $80. A bit steep but still less than paying someone to remove my wheels. You'll also need a 6mm hex wrench. I had one that fits onto a socket wrench. I highly suggest this as you can then torque correctly later on. Needle nose pliers or similar to remove the cotter pin from the back axle nut. All threads including those on the calipers are traditional. Lefty loosey righty tighty.
Rear:
Support wheel with a couple 2x4's on the ground. Remove cotter pin. Remove nut that you just freed up (washer also). Push on axle bolt and watch it come out the other side. Try to keep track of the orientation of the aluminum spacer that makes contact with the chain tensioner. Move tire forward a bit to remove chain, then back to remove caliper. Rear caliper will slide backwards and free up. Do not stress the brake line. Roll wheel back and away from the bike. You may or may not have to remove the 2x4's first. There are two different types of spacers on either side of the wheel that you will need to not lose. Remove them and clean them up. They are different so pay attention to which side they came off of. Our rear tires are wide enough that you can lay the tire down on the brake disc side and not worry about the disk touching the floor.
Front:
Support wheel as you did the rear. Use the 6mm hex wrench to loosen the two screws on the bottom of the front fork. These keep the axle bolt from moving. Do not loosen the other side that holds on the flat "nut" with the 22mm hole that looks like it would accept a hex wrench. Put your 22mm socket on the axle bolt and loosen completely and pull out. Remove both front brake calipers from the point where they attach to the frame. 2 hex bolts each. The Pit Bull stands had a place to rest the calipers. Way cool. Some instructions said to remove some of the front plastics. I didn't have to do this. Later you may want to loosen the hex nuts and remove the nut on the bottom of the fork that you didn't loosen yet. Might not be necessary though. Once the calipers are free the tire should just roll off the front. There are also spacers on the front (identical on each side) that should be removed and cleaned.
Now take your wheels to the local bike shop and have them mount/balance your new tires. Mine did this for free since I bought the tires from them.
3. Replacing wheels.
I suppose I should have mentioned above that you'll want some axle grease and some chain lube to finish this. Axle grease is optional, but if you get your stuff all dirty you'll want to clean and apply a light coating of grease. I don't think the wheels rotate on the parts we remove but the grease will help protect against the elements. Several places said it is important to not mix greases.
Rear:
You basically just reverse the removal process. Check that your tire was mounted with the directional arrow going the right way. Make sure the lines on those aluminum spacers are lining up with the same marks on either side of the frame. Make sure you replace the wheel spacers as well. I lightly coated them and the bolt before replacing. I think I did put on the chain before replacing the caliper, but I suspect either way would work. I made sure the aluminum spacers were simply in the same place, but this is probably a good time to check chain tension. You'll remember from the removal that the rear caliper is held on by a combination of slide rail and axle bolt. Tighten to 80 ft lbs. If the spacings for the cotter pin don't line up, tighten to the next space.
Front:
Again, we are going to reverse the removal process. Make sure you put the wheel on such that the tire's directional arrows are going the right way. Make sure you don't strip your front axle bolt. When you have it threaded correctly you'll get several turns without significant resistance (assuming the tire is supported correctly). I actually partially mounted the calipers on the wheel again to get better alignment. I lowered and raised the bike about 3 times before I started torquing down on the front axle bolt to make sure everything settled correctly. I then torqued down to 94 ft lbs. Front caliper hex bolts are tightened to 25 ft lbs. Front axle clamps (hex bolts at bottom of front forks) are tightened to 15 ft lbs. All of my torque numbers came from an 06-07 service manual. I couldn't find an 05.
Lube your chain. Make sure the front and rear discs don't grab on the the brake pads. I heard more contact than I did with car brake pads, but things seemed ok when I went for a ride. Lower your bike. I think you are done. Test your brakes. Check your fluids. Check your calipers after riding around a bit to make sure the discs aren't getting over heated.
Use common sense. You are responsible for yourself when working on your bike. If you are not comfortable with this, take your bike to the repair shop. I have provided guidelines to help with wheel removal/replacement but I am not a mechanic or in any way authorized to provide instruction or perform the work that I described. I am also not responsible in any way for the results you obtain. Have fun and be safe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cpr1
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds
0
May 30, 2011 04:44 PM
beansbaxter
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds
3
Dec 22, 2006 07:48 PM
beansbaxter
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds
0
Oct 9, 2006 11:33 AM
