break in
 

just wondering how you guys went about the break in for the 650?

RE: break in
 

When I got mine I kept the rpm's at about 4000 and when I was on long, straight roads I would slow down into third gear and run it upto 8000rpm's and engine break it back down. I was not hard on it because I did not want anything to happen to the bike, but I talked to a motorcycle mechanic that runs a performance shop here in town and he told me that he does his the same way. I changed the oil at 600 miles (dealer service) and then agian at 1500 miles after that. I have about 2000 miles on my bike now and haven't had any problems with the bike so far, and will be doing the next oil change at 3000 miles or when it get to the point to put the bike up for the season. I use Kawasaki oil and filter, but will be switching to the Purolator pure one filter and Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil at the next oil change. I ride mostly in town back and forth to work in stop and go traffic and usually run the rpm's anywhere beween 4000 to 7000.

RE: break in
 

hmm, an engine is still an engine. So through out your searches and answers, it comes down to what you think is right or wrong for your belief. Where as my belief in break in may sound harsh to some but copesetic to others. Good luck and have fun.

RE: break in
 

You got to"get on it" to blow the rings outward up against the walls of the cylinders so the two surfaces mate and seal well. But it's a fine line betweenloading it and lugging it. Be smooth, yet firmin your power deliver so the parts break in, but don't lug. Keep away from low rpm lugging, especially up hills. I keep rpm's below 2/3rds red-line during the first 1000 miles, be it car or bike. That equates to 7330rpm's on the 650R. I gotta go copy a quote from motoman regarding our nikasil(chromecomposite)cylinder bores, one sec...

"Uffe writes MotoMan:
I read the articles on breaking in procedure but there is one thing that puzzles me.
Does all this really work with a motor that has hard-wearing chrome-composite plated bores (which the FZ1 has)?
MotoMan says "The rough crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a “file” to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly "use up" the roughness"
Is there any rough crosshatch pattern in the FZ1 bores?
If you have any answer I would be more than happy to hear it...
MotoMan responded immediately:
Thanks for your e-mail!
The "break in article" was actually first started as being about the GSXR 750, which has a nikasil bore material.
The "FZ1" uses the same bore material as the R1, and that's where I did most of my break in "research".
What I mean is that you will have no problem with using the instructions of my article, because your new bike has the same material in it's cylinder bore.
The main idea is to accelerate & decelerate your bike to put a load on the piston rings.
What you said is true..... you can't hone a composite cylinder with a normal honing stone. The cylinders do have a "crosshatch" pattern to provide oil retention, and to wear in the rings, just like the older steel cylinders. The only difference is that the composite cylinders need a special diamond hone.
Sincerely, Pat McGivern~MotoMan" (motoman.com)

I believe that you should ride the bike or car during break-in the way you plan to use it everyday. They saya motor will perform the way youdrive it during break in, butI wouldn't worry about it, chances are it will last longer than you can ride it either way. Even my dealer said it was cool to take it up to 6000rpm's during break in.

Here's some food for thought:
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Here's another article about the importance of putting loads on the motor during break-in
http://usu.net/sites/motorcyclebreakin/breakin.html

RE: break in
 

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