Performance Mods?
I just purchased a 2008 Ninja 250R, and I would like to see if I can get a few mods, maybe some things I can do myself with little money to start off with.
I would like to get a better sound out of the exhaust, is there a way I can remove the Cat's inside the exhaust, or hollow it out for a deeper tone?
Any other small minor mods that I can do that are inexpensive or easy for a new rider?
Thanks for your help in advance!!
I would like to get a better sound out of the exhaust, is there a way I can remove the Cat's inside the exhaust, or hollow it out for a deeper tone?
Any other small minor mods that I can do that are inexpensive or easy for a new rider?
Thanks for your help in advance!!
i see this alot, and many times (i get to beat everyone yto the punch.. yay! lol) the list will cocnsit of exhaust modification, a sprocket change, and an air filter.
theres a few things more i'm sure the guys who are more familiar with this machine could tell ya.. those are pretty much universal, there.. lol
theres a few things more i'm sure the guys who are more familiar with this machine could tell ya.. those are pretty much universal, there.. lol
a sprocket change will change your final drive ratio and allow a little more "power" for takeoffs.
it's not a HP deal.. it's simply letting the motor pull a little harder.
a typical change in gearing is going 1 tooth down in the front (drive) sprocket and up 2 or 3 teeth on the rear (driven) sprocket.
this will take away some top end speed in favor for a harder pull in the gears.
a rule to follow is 1 tooth different on the front sprocket equals 3 teeth on the back..
so, if you go with a -1/+2 setup, basically, it's like adding 5 more teeth to the rear sprocket. i'm not sure what chain is on that bike.. i'd guess a 520, but if it's not a 520, alot of guys change over to the 520 for a weight difference in the driveline.. the motor's gotta work a little less hard to get everything spinning then.
the "5" series chain all share the same 5/8" pitch (pace from roller to roller) but the roller width is different between them.. a 520 chain will have a .252" wide roller, a 525 will have a .313" and a 530 will have a .375" wide roller.
same (just FYI, here..
applies to the "6" series.. the 620/625/630 has a 3/4" pitch instead of a 5/8" , but the width remains the same.
weight is the only name of the game on a 520 conversion, honestly.. if you've already got a 520 chain, then stick with it.. but you can play with different ratios and see what you like with the sprockets.
it looks like rave reviews for going up 2 teeth on the rear sprocket after reading up on some other boards i'm on.
or, drop 1 or 2 on the drive sprocket.. same thing.. and sprockets are about $20 from the look of it.
it's not a HP deal.. it's simply letting the motor pull a little harder.
a typical change in gearing is going 1 tooth down in the front (drive) sprocket and up 2 or 3 teeth on the rear (driven) sprocket.
this will take away some top end speed in favor for a harder pull in the gears.
a rule to follow is 1 tooth different on the front sprocket equals 3 teeth on the back..
so, if you go with a -1/+2 setup, basically, it's like adding 5 more teeth to the rear sprocket. i'm not sure what chain is on that bike.. i'd guess a 520, but if it's not a 520, alot of guys change over to the 520 for a weight difference in the driveline.. the motor's gotta work a little less hard to get everything spinning then.
the "5" series chain all share the same 5/8" pitch (pace from roller to roller) but the roller width is different between them.. a 520 chain will have a .252" wide roller, a 525 will have a .313" and a 530 will have a .375" wide roller.
same (just FYI, here..
applies to the "6" series.. the 620/625/630 has a 3/4" pitch instead of a 5/8" , but the width remains the same.weight is the only name of the game on a 520 conversion, honestly.. if you've already got a 520 chain, then stick with it.. but you can play with different ratios and see what you like with the sprockets.
it looks like rave reviews for going up 2 teeth on the rear sprocket after reading up on some other boards i'm on.
or, drop 1 or 2 on the drive sprocket.. same thing.. and sprockets are about $20 from the look of it.
ALthoguht that is good advice WH, the a -1/+2 sproket change will be murder on a 250r you would kill your top end and probably limit the bike to about 80-85mph at top speed. most sproket changes for the 250 are usually a +1 on the front because that lowers the revs at highway speeds, and will usually kepp you from shifting midturn. also anythign u do to this bike as far as exhasut and air filter you will have to rejet
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sparkmaster123
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Jul 11, 2009 01:34 AM




