I've been looking over the Web Cam Inc site and see they basically have two apparently user friendly grinds - the 631 and 101.

It seems like I saw something on their site about checking valve to piston clearance and even valve to valve clearance, but I can't find that page again. Is that necessary with either of these grinds on a stock bore?

Then there's the question of needing to degree the cam in-always a good idea but necessary on a stock bore engine?

Also on their site, the suggestion to replace any cam followers etc with new parts when you install their cam(s). I'm not entirely familiar with the Kaw's valve shim system, but their must be something in there that's been worn in a certain way with the OE Kaw parts and should be replaced with a cam swap.

So my question is: what all is actually involved during the installation as far as checking clearances, degreeing, the ACR and any other details other than the remove and replace part?

I did a general search here but didn't see anything definitive

 

Everything I've seen and read on those two grinds allow a straight drop-in and require nothing special. Degreeing camshafts is always recommended in a performance situation, and if you read closely even when you change a camshaft chain. Now this is seldom actually required for the engine to function properly, but a performance benefit can be smaller due to cam timing tolerances. It does seem a little silly to spend a fair amount of money on cams and valvetrain updates, and then not take advantage of optimum cam timing.

On needing new buckets, it's probably a little like using new valve lifters with a new cam on a pushrod engine. However, I know that many/most use their existing buckets on engines with bucket/shim designs with new cams and don't seem to suffer any ill effects or failures. Using a good, quality cam lube applied at installation for break-in is important.

 

So far so good then.

I guess I'd have to get my ACR pressed out and put it in the new cams. I was studying the cam mod OP's photos and description of the circle and half moon relationship to the head surface when eyeballing the positioning of the ACR but his ACR seemed to be partly below the surface IIRC

I'll have to read that section again

 

if you aren't going to install a kickstarter I wouldn't worry about the ACR.

 

You send a set of stock cams and they send you drop in cams ready to go what ever grind you choose. ACR installed.

I think you could get a set cams without sending in a stock set but have to pay the core charge?

I have the 101 cams and used all my stock buckets, valve springs, etc.

 

I think my battery needs all the help it can get at times..but I'll cross that bridge when and if I come to it.

I have a pic on my computer showing a cable actuated comp release on the left side of the head. I think it was done at Stroker's now defunct? shop.

 

Their website says you have six months to send in the core and get a refund. I'd have to pay the core and get a refund later; living overseas my bike would be down for two months if I took it apart first. (unless I paid thru the nose for some sort of express shipping)

I can order new buckets-not a big deal though I suppose.

 

[QUOTE=Richard Avatar;497776]Their website says you have six months to send in the core and get a refund. I'd have to pay the core and get a refund later; living overseas my bike would be down for two months if I took it apart first. (unless I paid thru the nose for some sort of express shipping)



Or find a set of used stockcams on ebay and have them shipped directly to Web Cam? Then sell your stock cams.

I believe they would take any good klx 250 or klx 300 used cam in return?

 

I'll have to give them a call and check on the ACR etc.

Stroker used to make a cable actuated manual comp release that attached to the left side of the head

 

Now that's interesting. You know...I've had several bikes with the KACR and never had an issue with any of them. I'm kind of in the camp of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" on this component.