Valve noise, adjustment, cam chain
 

I'm going to try to make this as to-the-point as I can since this topic is thuroughly discussed.

1. My valves have become VERY noisey over the last couple weeks. I know it is time to shim, mileage is something like 7350 or so. Exactly what parts do I need to do this? Do the shims come in a kit from Kawasaki, something I could buy from the dealer? I will need a new cam cover gasket, what other gaskets might I need? Any other parts?

Realistically, is this a shadetree job? My dad wussed out and took his DRZ to a mechanic, but I don't have that big ballin' money like him so I would like to do it on our own, me and him, but if there are too many variables to screw up, I'd hate to hose my top end.

2. This morning, warming the bike up, I'm listening to the noisey valves and all of a sudden, the valves instantly quit making racket. One revolution they are loud and then they are quiet. Was this the cam chain tightening up a notch? Should I be concerned? The bike ran fine, no noitceable difference in power. Just thought it was odd for there to be such a drastic change in sound. This normal?

I have the service manual, and I have in my links the thread from Nobrakes.

Thanks so much in advance.
Cliff

Sounds more like the cam chain tightening up. Usually with valve adjustments, you'll notice a flattening of power from the engine. Like it doesn't want to get up and go like it use to. But with almost 7,500 miles, its time to check the valve clearance. First time it may take awhile, but after that, its easy to do again. Hot Cams sells the shims in a kit. And its best to buy the kit since you don't know what adjustments you may need.

On the KLX's, the valves tighten up with use, especially the intakes. So the noise should not be from the valves. Good chance that the chain has stretched.
I've reused the cam cover gasket many times on my KLX300. Still have the original one on the bike.

When you remove the camshaft cap, watch out for the two tubular alignment guides. They can fall out and go down into the lower part of the engine.

Good Luck

Ride on
Brewster

Yes checking your valve clearence is an easy job!!! trust me I have spent more time stressing about it than it took me to get in there and check them. I am in the prosses of doing an adj. right now just need to get some shims and put it all back toghter. The valve cover gasket is a nice thick rubber gasket and can be rused just put a thin bead of silicone down and it should seal it right up.

I'd like to take this opportunity, not to help, but to complain more.

Another WTF Kawasaki moment.

This is how normal bikes adjust valves. There is no removing of the rocker box...and there is no shimming. I'm not sure EXACTLY what that entails of, but if its what I think it is that is SUPER rigged.

Normal bikes have little screw caps right above the valves with O-rings you unscrew...sometimes you don't even have to take the tank off. You just make sure your motor is clean and screw them off. Once off, you loosen a lock nut and either screw in or out the little bolt that pushes on the valve. It's as simple as that.

I don't even what to know what this turd entails of. I'm at like 2350 miles or so now.

The klx has a "shim over bucket" design. The cams are directly over the the valves, the cam lobes push directly on the shim (the shim is between the lobe and the end of the valve stem) . All motorcycles with this design (not just Kawasakis) require changing shims to adjust the valve clearences. Bikes that have screw caps and with lock nuts and "little bolts" are not the same design. Those valve trains have the cam centered in the head and rocker arms (pivoting lever of sorts) one end follows the cam lobes the other end pushes on the valve. Although the valve clearences are more of a pain to measure and adjust there is also less reciprocating mass so, in theory at least, they can achieve higher RPM. Always measure the valve clearences (using the procedure in your manual) before you change any shims. You need to know the clearence to determine the correct shim (and you may not even need to adjust them).

Pretty much every modern 4 stroke uses the Valve shim system. Usually only old design air-cooled engines have the adjustable screws. All MX bikes have the shim over bucket design, and have for several years.

Definitely check your clearances. I checked mine two weeks ago due to noise and found that the noise was coming from the cam lobe eating into the "bucket" (tappet) that sits on top of the valve. Its been in the shop almost two weeks now getting both cams and all 4 tappets replaced. The dealer thinks the cam was not hardened properly.

My old "85" KLR 250 had the adjustable rocker arms (screw and lock nut) like Jason is talking about. It did make it easy.

Yeah the DRZ is the bucket design which is why dad brought his to a shop, but I mean, as long as I'm super-extra careful taking it all apart, and I pay attention, and I can get an accurate measure of the clearances, I wanna do it myself. Plus I wanna take advantage of the opportunity (with the tank off) to remove the emissions crap.

I gotta pay some bills first but I guess I'll be ordering that Hot Cams shim kit if its the best option. My cam cover gasket leaks like a siv so I'm going to order a new one of those as well, I assume the stealership is the only place for that.

I forgot where I heard about this but there is someplace that has a shim replacement service. You can take your shims in for the size you need and they take yours in trade. Sounds really cool not having to buy a complete shim kit. You just need to know exactly what your measurements are.