With our bikes are their specific bends we hve to follow? Besides the thickness 7/8". Can you use any bar and just change cable and lengths?

 

Yep! You could go with ape hangers if they were 7/8" and you could get cables and hoses.

Actually I've recommended riders who want higher bars get a pair of ATV bars, since they usually have a higher rise than most motorcycle off road bars.

 

Dual Sport bikes need more room for more controls stuff than a dirt bike. Something to consider/keep in mind.

 

I want some zeta cx mini bike mediums, less sweep, less width, but about an inch higher or so

 

I use the Zeta enduro bend bars I then added Zeta bar risers which added over an inch in height, cables still fit fine, no extra length required. You could use a combination of fat bars and a bar riser kit that accomadates the fat bars and still get away with stock cables. Mine is a 2010 EFI so cannot vouch for the carby model.

 

I just successfully installed some Pro Taper Raptor bars which are considerable higher than stock. I was worried about cable length but, with slight re routing of the clutch cable and throttle cables, everything works just fine. A hard left really tightens the clutch cable but affects nothing. Maybe it will wear faster because of the bending but, I`m ok with it. The height of the bars allows me to center my balance (when in the 'attack' position for off roading)as opposed to the feeling that I`m leaning forward all the time. I`m 5'8" and it makes a huge difference.

Ian

 

For me fat bars are fine on rubber mounting, too stiff on solid mounts like the klx, even worse if you cut them narrower.

 

OK, yearly tuneup looks like I'll need some new bars.
Anyone have a stock set they want to get rid off.
Otherwise....

--------------------Width --Height---Pullback
Pro Taper Kawa Mini-28.75"---3.71"----1.97"
Pro Taper Raptor----30"------5.64"-----3.41"
Stock- -------------29"------2"CTC?---????
I am running a 3.75" riser extension now. I don't know exactly how they measure all this, but it looks like with the Raptor I would remove the extension and be about the same place?
With the mini I would keep the riser and be about 1.7" higher (this seems pretty high).

I like where they are vertically now, maybe I could go with the Raptors without the riser. I don't know what the pullback means, but assume it is the turnback. I don't quite know how they measure the turnback or the height, so I don't quite know how they stack up with the stock ones.

Comments?

 

Bars with smaller pullback helps standing as well. The pegs are a little (too) forward on the klx, bars feel to close when standing. My vote is a bit taller and a bunch less pullback on this bike. Protaper 7/8" are the toughest, bent many of others.

 

I'm running MX bars (I think standard CR bend, they're over 10 years old and that makes me 10 years older so I forget!) on my 650. I am right at the limits on the grips and switches but that also includes the clamp on mirror mounts Kaw uses (I also put one on the master cylinder side, I would not particularly like to break a master cylinder because the mirror stem threaded into it).

It is a good idea to make sure there is sufficient room, especially if you may need to cut off some width. ATV bars with their higher rise will usually have room for switches since ATVs have them. The mini bars may already be narrow enough and from what I've seen, they have a narrower area where they're bridged, they'd look a bit weird if the centers were as wide as a standard MX bike.

Still, measuring to allow for switches makes a lot of sense... shows a bit of planning, which I don't always do...