Tools and tips for manual cam chain tensioner

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Old Mar 17, 2018 | 07:08 AM
  #1  
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Default Tools and tips for manual cam chain tensioner

Well I have ordered my manual tensioner from Mark and I need to prepare the tools for the replacement.
Since I dont have access to quality tools in Bali, I need to bring them with me in my suitcase.

Can anyone please give me a list of the tools and supplies I need to pull the old one and fit the new one.

I have seen pics of someone getting to the bolts between the rear wheel and mudguard, is that a good way of dealing with the bolts without needing to remove the exhaust ?

Any tips and tricks would really be appreciated

Thanks
 
Old Mar 17, 2018 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Snapperhead
Well I have ordered my manual tensioner from Mark and I need to prepare the tools for the replacement.
Since I dont have access to quality tools in Bali, I need to bring them with me in my suitcase.

Can anyone please give me a list of the tools and supplies I need to pull the old one and fit the new one.

I have seen pics of someone getting to the bolts between the rear wheel and mudguard, is that a good way of dealing with the bolts without needing to remove the exhaust ?

Any tips and tricks would really be appreciated

Thanks
Its really easy. I am sure mark will comment. All i needed was an Allen wrench (can’t remeber what size), a socket wrench with an 8mm socket and i believe it was a 10 mm socket and a 17mm socket, also a pair of plyers with come in handy.
The Allen wrench is for putting the new bolts into the pre existing holes where you remove the old tensioner bolts.
The 8mm socket is for removing the two outside bolts holding the tensioner in place.
The 10mm(if i am remembering correctly) is for removing the middle bolt of the tensioner.
The 17mm socket is for turning the engine over to move the valves out of the way as well as adjusting the tensor for all areas of slack.
The plyers came in handy to tighten the locking nut on the tensioner.

I might be leaving something out but i believe that it is all i used. Mark also has instructions on his website. He is known as klx678 on here and im sure he would love to help if you shot him a message. Also many people on this thread are willing to help. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
 
Old Mar 18, 2018 | 02:30 AM
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As said, you need the 8mm to take off the old tensioner. THe new one uses a 4mm allen and a 6mm to hold the adjuster bolt when locking down the 13mm lock nut. You will want some blue Loc Tite thread locker for the mount fasteners to make sure they remain tight. There is a cold set method to start, which may be adequate. That is all I did on my 250. But the long extension/allen socket is used for the hot set fine tune if you do that. Have a bit of grease to put on the gasket.

The kit does have full instructions and my phone number should you want to call me. Just call between 4:00-9:00 pm eastern.
 
Old Mar 20, 2018 | 04:50 AM
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Thank you.
I will start getting some tools together and read through any old threads again to check for any tips

Finding blue Loctite in Bali would be as easy as finding a vegetarian lion in Africa.
 
Old Mar 20, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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Some mechanic somewhere could help you out. Get a few drops in a plastic bag. Make sure it is hand tool type.

One other possibility would be to paint some fingernail polish on the thread. Get a dark color then also mark the screw head/body to see if the screw moves. That's an old mechanic's trick to see movement.
 
Old Mar 23, 2018 | 11:02 PM
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I got the best noise reduction results by adjusting mine with my fingertips while hot and running. It seems that you can put tension on it more easily with it running.
 
Old Mar 24, 2018 | 01:28 AM
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Finding blue Loctite in Bali would be as easy as finding a vegetarian lion in Africa.


That’s funny LOL....
 
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