Running a chain with two master links?

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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #11  
Highbeam's Avatar
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The OP has already had his CS sprocket off once so the factory overtightened and maybe loktited nut is no longer factory tight. Removal will be easily accomplished with a standard impact gun or with hand tools. 76 ft-lbs right? My trucks lug nuts are 150 ft-lbs and can be removed with hand tools.

I too think you guys must have whimpy air tools. Are you using some tiny 3/8" drive impact drivers? They make 1/4" impact guns too. They also make 1" air powered impact drivers that are fairly common.
 
Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:12 PM
  #12  
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Let us know how the 13 & 15 work with the 45, and in particular, can you run both combinations with the same chain and still have adequate adjustment on the tensioner. It works with the 49 rear, but I don't know if it will work with the 45.
 
Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Highbeam
76 ft-lbs right? My trucks lug nuts are 150 ft-lbs and can be removed with hand tools.

They also make 1" air powered impact drivers that are fairly common.
92 ft-lbs, just checked the manual. A truck lug nut is quite different in that you've got a couple of tons on four wheels holding it steady vs 300 lbs on two wheels.

I don't think that 1" drive air impacts are all that common. None of the auto shops I'd worked at, servicing up to 1 ton vehicles, had anything bigger than 3/4' drive. I wasn't until I was at a full size truck shop that I had a 1" drive to persuade things that needed persuading, sometimes with the help of the Red 'n Black one size fits all (aka: The Hot Wrench).

Once I'd had my cs sprocket nut off the first time with the help of a buddy I was able to do it myself with a 3/4 drive T handle and an old motorcycle fork leg force extender; hardly take-along tools. YMMV.
 
Old Mar 29, 2011 | 11:55 PM
  #14  
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This sprocket is on a spline. Why should I tighten it till I fart? Then lock the tab,., I ordered a 15t last week. Should be in soon.

If needed, I will put a half link in it and not think twice about it. One master or two, The only way to be sure is none and that is as bad as a belt to change.

It will then be 15/39 or 2.6:1
David
 

Last edited by David R; Mar 30, 2011 at 12:04 AM.
Old Mar 30, 2011 | 01:06 AM
  #15  
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If I ever decide that I need to have two sprockets along, 13/14 or 13/15 I'll go with the snug it up with a 1/2" ratchet and have extra washers along. Like you said ^^, it's on a spline. If it's wrong to go with less than book torque then I'll learn a lesson. My KLR 250 cs sprocket could be changed using 1/4" drive tools, different (better?) set-up. Buddy's Honda 230 same thing, easy peasy.
 
Old Mar 30, 2011 | 01:51 AM
  #16  
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Guys,

This countershaft nut thing is way out of control! I removed mine with a crappy 24v cordless Menards impact driver. All it takes is a little heat from a propane torch. No pipes through the wheel etc. Just heat it till you see the loctite oozing out of the threads. The problem is the factory loctite. Break that bond and it's not that big a deal.
 
Old Mar 30, 2011 | 01:57 AM
  #17  
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Threadjack alert!

2veedubs, what are the two VeeDubs? I'm assuming you have two VWs.
 
Old Mar 30, 2011 | 02:55 PM
  #18  
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13-45 will get you up to 60, but if you want to split between road and dirt, or mostly road, I would go to the 14-42 (stock)
 
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