rectifier / regulator question

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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:15 PM
  #1  
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Default rectifier / regulator question

well last weekend as some of you know my battery died(RIP), found my head light globe bent in, though that was the cause so fixed, new battery should of been all good.

went to ride my bike in the morning and my new battery was flat...wtf. push started road 15-20 mins, i stopped the engine and dead...would not even turn over. i know it wouldn't fully charge the battery but it should of started.

another 15-20min ride in the afternoon same story.

using my multimeter i found that at idle i had 12.3v and when reving above 3 000rpm it dropped to 10.5...wtf

disconnected my battery and found that i had 8v at idle and 4v when revving.

testing the circuit with the battery disconnected and ignition off and i found on the Ohms (20 000k) i had o.32. tracked it to the rectifier / regulator .

so my question is, with the 3 phase and 12v lines disconnected, i still had a reading of 0.32. the rectifier / regulator was total disconnected from the bike and still had the reading. so, should i get a reading at all when i am taking a reading on the positive and negative lines on the 12v line from the rectifier / regulator .

so to me my rectifier / regulator is broken, or there is a short circuit some where in the wiring for the leads. any thoughts.

this problem only happen after my enduro, and i went through a big *** puddle at the end of the race if that makes a difference i don't know.
 
Old Sep 30, 2009 | 05:49 AM
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5 double checked my stator and wiring and all good. so it the rectifier / regulator is the problem.

Kawasaki said that there is no stock and it will be a 2 week delay. hpe full i can find something in the after market section.
 
Old Sep 30, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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sorry to hear about your problem, I don't know enough to help
 
Old Sep 30, 2009 | 03:54 PM
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Those batteries don't like to hold a charge after they've been drained. I had to buy a new one because it would no longer charge after I left the ignition on like a dope. Once you correct the problem your new one should charge back up though. Whatever you do, don't let it drain again. Good luck.

Mike
 
Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:04 AM
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well it produces enough power to run the cdi just no lights, ill just park on a down hill on my ride on Tuesday. i picked one up off ebay for 64aud post from America.
 
Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:21 AM
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If I had the circuit in front of me I might have been able to help.

Sounds like you're onto it though.
Have you measured the output v from the stator?
 
Old Oct 2, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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yea, 26v at idle and +35v @ 4000 so its ok
 
Old Oct 2, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by fgk228
yea, 26v at idle and +35v @ 4000 so its ok
You are onto it.
Rec/reg for sure.
Unless the stator is breaking down under load.

Hahaha, only joking.
Not impossible but so unlikely as to be ruled out.
 
Old Oct 5, 2009 | 05:32 AM
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thanks for your in put
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:44 AM
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2 things usually kill reg/rects, they don't usually go bad on their own. Make sure you check these or your new unit will go bad too on down the road.

1. they are poorly grounded, so can't dump the excess voltage. Sometimes your best to give it a better ground than the factory, or an additional wire right to the neg batt post.

2. the 3 phases (wires) from the stator become unbalanced because the wiring connections get poor. Again, do better than the factory, even if it means rerouting and soldering the connections.
 



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