Power Commander V KLX250 EFI
 

Installing PowerCommand V.

Inside is the wiring:
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9409/img5627p.jpg
See if it's not complicated. Comes a terminal to put on the negative battery terminal and then 6. They are actually 3, because if you look comes in pairs. Then we see better. It is appropriate that we look at the terminals, then we have to find their partners on the bike, and its release-latching

Then there are small pieces of rubber in a holist to seal the PC-V when we finish, a cable to connect the bike with the Power to the computer-measured home-1'80m about some adhesives, and a double-sided Velcro set the unit to battery
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/3701/img5628s.jpg

The software CD for installation on your PC, and finally and very importantly the emulator that replaces the oxygen sensor.
http://img807.imageshack.us/img807/1786/img5624c.jpg

We have an 8mm wrench to remove the plastics, a small flat screwdriver y. .. patience.
The first thing we do is remove all plastics from the bike, also the tank and seat. Do not show pictures of disassembly I imagine we all know more or less remove the plastic. However, we must be careful with the tank. Is secured by three screws and unplugging the cable addition we must fuel level, whose terminal block to the right of the bike near the airbox air filter.
To turn off the gasoline-and I explained it once but just in case I repeat, we must release the terminal block comes in red under the tank (you can help us getting the tip of the screwdriver. We will use it at home all the terminals to drop tabs. We have to drop the red tab to allow the hose after you leave. No spills, it's great. If anything drop a few drops.
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/7923/img5633w.jpg


Then start the installation going. Patience. Start from the back and forth. Back at the height of a battery is the black box and go past the wires, as the overall installation. We can even use the same motor flanges are to open with a screwdriver.
The first point where we will stop almost immediately next to the battery. So are the cable connectors are shorter.
Look at the photo next to the black edge of the terminal battery is connected to the end, while we left off. Just in case.
Then we have to look at the bike the cable connector rod chopped or position, or something. There is no confusion, can not connect other. The disconnect we stayed two halves, each half going for a PC-V. The connector is the black color that is in my hand and disconnected from its original position in the PC-V white. And the connector loose with another specific number that comes with the PowerCommand.
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/3749/img5649w.jpg


We have the first pair list. Now we move forward to the second. They are located in the center of the bike, where the gas hose and out because it is part white. Is the throttle body connector. We can always unplug search carefully the Security tab, and disengaged before PULL TO THE GROSS. ALL CONNECTIONS COME EASY, YOU ARE LOOKING TRICK. BUT REMEMBER YOU SEE HOW TO RELEASE ON HAND AT THE INSTALLATION OF PC-v AS YOU HAVE ONE SO YOU CAN EASILY FIND OUT WHERE IS THE TAB to disconnect.
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/2241/img5650n.jpg

Connecting the replacement of the Power ...
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/713/img5654.jpg


There. We have only one partner. Is above the starter, next to the current regulator, the striatum is seen above the shifter. We have to disconnect the connector off the accelerator and put the PC-V.
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/5500/img5656h.jpg

And then to leave no loose connector unplugged, put it with your partner, as in the other two cases.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1929/img5657n.jpg

Well, we already have the 3 connectors installed. Look over the installation and protection from the elements and fouling. Care to let wires near the motor or any hot spot that can melt. Be curious, not like me: roll:
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/2896/img5658r.jpg

To questions of why bike is dirty, it's simple: that in the photos is better appreciated the new installation of other series. : Lol:: lol:: lol:

It only remains to put the black box above the battery. If anyone has a more secure place to say it. to me here I do not like much. Factory of Velcro I do not trust a lot, so I've got two plastic clamps that attach well to plastic, which in turn holds the battery. I even have made him a rubber back for that vibration is not finished "eating" the black box.
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2576/img5662h.jpg

Here the general appearance:
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/1598/img5664g.jpg

With the experience I propose better this location is more protected from accidents and water
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/7287/dscf5522c.jpg


Then we have to go to escape and seek the Lambda probe, we have two options or leave disconnected or removed and stick a screw in the exhaust to plug the gap. If you install an American escape no problem, come prepared to work without liquid, bring no gap.
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7221/img5666g.jpg

Then simply find the terminal area where the probe was connected Lambda and replace it with the emulator that comes with the PowerCommand. About the terminal area is under the seat, the most central of the three to come:
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/7331/img5667y.jpg


For those who are curious can choose to put a switch on / off to use two maps. NOT INCLUDED IN THE POWER KIT COMMNADER
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9160/img5631a.jpg

This is turn the switch on the handlebar and bring the two wires passing them well for the entire installation of the bike.
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9405/img5661u.jpg


Must either be screwed into the small holes having the unit for this purpose, the two closest to the center screw of Power. Are the two that put MAP on the image of the instructions.
In the image I have marked up two silhouettes. Do not look at it, look right in the picture where it says MAP and MAP. One on each side, no matter the polarity.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4817/ahora1.jpg



With this completed and we just connect the black wire from the PC-V to the negative of the bike.
Motar all over again (be careful with the tank and the fuel level terminal block) and go.
The bike should now start.

If we want to improve the map that comes installed on the PowerCommand source is possible, but it should be a bank and a power meter bandwidth for exhaust emissions.
To connect the bike computer is very simple, just install the drivers disk and connect the USB cable. You can upload or modify the map on the screen, and if you have installed the two maps can button Altener either even with the bike running.

These are the figures of power and torque before and after. The bike has installed a LeoVince in both situations. The data are obtained WHEEL, not the clutch (a% more).
POWER
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8037/potenciaz.jpg
TORQUE
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8427/parvj.jpg

Wow, cool. I think you are the first person to post on installing a PCv to the efi KLX.
Now you need to get a 351cc bigbore kit and make the bike fast!
Please keep us updated on how well the PCv it works.

Thanks.
I had noticed that it was necessary to explain a little installation.
The operation is very good, it is advisable to install an exhaust sistem.

Soon we set up a kit, but not in 351cc, but "only" 300cc with PowerCommand V. For severe conditions use the bike I demand this be more appropriate since it generates less heat and does not much effort to the clutches.

Nice work!

With your mapping, you are presumably using the generic ones supplied by Dynojet? I have a 2010 Husky TE450 and guys over at Cafe Husky have been playing with the PCV on my bike a bit. From what I understand you want to tweak your map. If you know someone that has an Autotune module that you can borrow for a while to let it adjust your base map for you I believe you will see even better improvements. Then you can play around with the lower rev mapping manually to get it singing - at lower revs the gas flows past the sensor in the exhaust are slower and throw the autotune adjustments off a bit I believe.

As a matter of interest, what manufacturer does Kawasaki use for the EFI Throttlebody? (Mikuni, Kehin, etc?)

Keihin Kawasaki uses for this bike.

I decided to modify the improvements that have my bike set up: LeoVince, snorkel removed, UNI filter type, etc.
With this new map I created them the same power and torque figures, but the throttle response is more forceful and effective.

Thank you for a great guide, jeffward!

My PC5 is on order and should be with me in a week or so.
I've contacted the deallers from europe asking for maps as there is no map available on the PC site at got nothing.
Thats their responce

"However-I dont have any maps for your bike.I asked some of our german tuning centers and they dont have any map too.
If my collegues from the other distributors cannot help I would suggest an autotune kit to map you bike
on the road."[/I]

My setup will be a 2010 KLX250s, Two Brothers Slip-On, KDX snorkel.
Could you share any maps that will suit my setup?
I'm very upset that there are no maps available on the web for the KLX.

Thanks in advance!

Yes, do not worry I'll pass on that map my bike with no problem.
Note that is with LeoVinci, snorkel cap removed.

First install the PowerCommand. Although the map is loaded to 0 and you notice some improvement.

I want to make a small clarification with respect to the Power Commander V.
The unit comes loaded with a mapping everything to 0, equivalent to the stock ECU.
To create a new map that suits our bike improvements is very convenient to go slowly modifying the mapping of stock. We can also attend a workshop and we made ​​our own custom bike. But never can cost some money too. The reason is that for about $ 170 at our disposal the AUTOTUNE (connects in the same place where is located the Lambda probe) marketed Dynoyet, who is responsible for auto-adjust our bike seamlessly and automatically. Even with changing weather conditions, engine temperature, or height above sea level, you always have a perfect combustion.
Kept in mind before you waste money on workshops by more or less effective maps.
A greeting.
Will continue to investigate ...

Good post. I have been searching for such post for long time. PCV+auto tune will be the next upgrade. Thank you so much for the information.

Good work, Jeffward, very interesting. You made me look at this PCV unit in more details than I did in the past. I actually find it quite expensive...

I find you're lucky to have access to a dyno.