FYI Recently I got fresh service manual for 2020+ klx300. Which say max ignition advance is 31 degree at 6000 rpm. Which is lower than what was on KLX250 (up to 35 degrees @11k) and JDM KLX250 (up to 39 degrees @11k). And BDSB guy say they they retarded ignition at high rpm. It's not. a 2-stroke bike to retard ignition at high rpm. And what, retard from 31 degree which already retarded? 2020+ klx300R with the same engine and same cams has ignition advance up to 35 degrees.
Also they say there is a fuel map for each gear, 1-6. There is no gear sensor on the bike.
While initially I was excited that someone cracked klx250/300 ECU now I don't have any trust in BDSB reflash. If not positive reviews I would consider reflash a scam. Is the guy just poor communicator or he doesn't know all details of the actual reflash changes someone else made for him?

 

I have the BDSB ECU installed and regret the purchase. Mostly because of how shady they have been since its been released. Removing all the videos and such. It was a long boring winter and I got the mod bug when I came across a set of SM wheels for sale. So I recently converted my DS to a SM and installed the Barkers Exhaust along with the EHS fuel controller. I have the AIS delete, Secondary throttle removed and spring, BDSB ECU, EHS, Barkers exhaust, and lid removed. I have only had a chance to ride 20 miles or so with this set up. It has some backfiring when rolling off partial throttle (cruising speed) and coasting down from slow speeds. So I know the fueling is off as expected (rich?). When I get a chance I am going to check for an exhaust leek at the header. The exhaust takes some fiddling to keep it away from the rear brake line and at the same time keeping the O2 sensor from going into the airbox. I might have positioned the exhaust at a weird angle causing a leak. It's something I want to check.

Also, if you go with Barkers, don't worry about intake noise with lid removal. You won't hear anything but the exhaust. It's a loud one

 

My particular current case is. 2022 klx300sm efi
Hi flo filter
Air box lid delete
Aftermarket exhaust slip on only. Delkvic
stp delete
And o2 delete.
Running pcfc
I think my currentcurrent memory serves was for a klx300r. Bike since air box lid removal seems great after 7k rpm but lacks low end torque below that.

Going to see if I have any other maps saved and compare I am assuming rich.

As of above post pcfc does have fuel lines for each gear I'm not sure I've messed with them as I was originally told the klx just sees 1st gear mapping for these.

 

Your stock ECM limits power levels above 8k rpm. This can only be remedied, and top end power restored, by replacing it with the BDSB or the ECM available from forum member TSC.

To properly fuel your bike in its current form, you will need a dyno shop to do a complete dyno tune on the engine.

It it were my bike, I would do the following:
1. Replace the ECM with one of the two choices above.
2. Reconnect the O2 sensor and NEVER deactivate it again, for ANY reason.
3. Remove the PCFC
4. Replace the airbox lid without snorkel. This is how the bike should be run unless/until the below dyno shop tune becomes available.
5. Find a Dyno shop and discuss your particular needs for a dyno tune:
Using your PCFC, with the O2 sensor connected and functioning.
Tuning only open loop operations with fueling set to stay between 12.6 - 12.8 AFR.
6. If a shop is found that will do this, remove the airbox lid and get the tune.,

 

You guys have got to stop armchair diagnosing the fueling of your performance modified EFI 300's.

For instance, @tezzmin , with your current mods, your top end could not possibly be rich . Your engine can now make over 28hp and the stock injector, even when run at 100% duty cycle, cannot "keep up" with the fueling demands of 28+ hp !

There is no way to know how well fueled such bikes are until a dyno shop hooks up its' wide band O2 sensor and does a full assessment of current fueling.
You cannot even read plugs anymore, with E10 ( ethanol'd fuel) such is not possible.

 

New video full of nonsense claiming they target 13:1 with standard narrowband o2 sensor. Bald guy deleting critical comments from youtube. Doesn't it smell scam?
Enjoy.

 

This guy is a clown.

 

Well, here is the rub :

This guy is providing data, knowledge, and production of a product ( ECU ) .

It is obvious that "his" ECU programming is limited ( limited in its' power production) because it is programmed to run only the mods that are aligned with his personal philosophy. His personal philosophy regarding performance mods will only allow a snorkel delete, STP removal, and cutting up (destroying) the stock slipon.

Note that he is no longer advocating for the destruction of the airbox via power tools. I give him kudos for that.

Also, in this vid, he did show the Delkevic slipon data - and, as expected, it eclipsed all the other data. I give him kudos for that.

All in all, he is showing signs of having moderated his positions on performance mods.

Most of the presentation revolving around that manual and the IAP sensor makes no sense to me. However, if that manual is for the KLX300, it seems to show the open loop fueling is Alpha - N.
In general, Alpha-N cannot pass modern emissions testing. Which "fits" with what we are learning about open loop not being initiated until TPS is over 75% - well above most emissions testing envelopes ( certainly above the EPA testing envelope ).

Taking in all current data and indications, Pinit Racing probably found the Stock ECU programming was mostly unusable and required a complete revamp in order to produce the BDSB KLX300 ECU offering.

It is very likely that a lidless airbox, full Barker exhaust system, and a BDSB ECU whose open loop fueling is reset via the addition of a dyno tuned PCFC, would produce 30 hp KLX300's.

I am going to read up on this guy, I think he has earned that.

 

I agree with him - every single owner of a EFI KLX should read his Bio timeline: https://www.bestdualsportbikes.com/about
Every question I had about this guy was answered by reading the above.

It becomes clear what is going on here - With such a high level of knowledge and skills, he is so far "beyond" the average Joe, so out of touch with his audience, that he improperly "dumbs down" his content.

He misjudges his audience as being unable to digest information, dumbs down waaay too much, and comes off as an idiot.

 

Reading the Bio makes it obvious that I/we owe David Simon latitude, if not apologies, regarding him, and his KLX vids.

David, destroying the stock slipon is problematic. Perhaps a BSDB product that mods the stock slipon for a "same-as" VE alternative to cutting those slots. I am aware that you will want to keep noise levels down and maintain proper spark arresting - and why. Such a product would be very attractive to a great many owners.

Please re-target open loop ops to 12.7 - not only helping with your mod combo, this should keep AFR at or below 13:1 when a loud performance slipon is used.
I know that you know about AFR burn rates (with E10) and the relationship between AFR and ignition point, as well as component cooling ramifications.

Regarding top levels of performance modding :
The only currently available full exhaust system is the Barker with the bung option.
The proven method to achieve the highest performance possible is via a lidless airbox.
Please consider a separate part number with programming that targets that mod combo - as that combo could produce ~30 hp.

I know that I, and tens of thousands more, would be quite happy with a BDSB ECU, a future BDSB slipon or slipon appliance, and a snorkel-less airbox. Such a combo would give a performance enhancement, over stock, of such a magnitude as to give the owner "a whole new bike" to ride.


P.S. David, please proofread your bio - lots of grammatical errors/ type-o's to fix. I certainly do not adhere to proper english, but I am not running a business and a web site.