Notchy shifting
 

Newbie green dualsporter here. I purchased a `07 KLX 250 in July with just under 600 original miles. I put about 40 miles on it and changed the oil and filter. I used Castrol straight 30w. It was kind of a notchy shifter from the get go, seemed a little smoother right after the change, but now I'm thinking it was just my imagination, because it is still on the notchy side. Not in all gears or all the time, just on occasion.

I read about the KLX shift drum/star being an issue on this forum, but I have an `07, so should be in good shape having the old style. So, my big question is, is it just the nature of the bike? It isn't totally mal-functioning, it's just got an occasional annoying hitch in the shifting. I haven't encountered any situations where it's been a real performance issue/hindrance yet, but am not looking forward to a technical trail situation where a quick shift is required, but can't be had because the gearbox won't comply.

Clutch function/action is perfect, and no funny noises are heard from the trans.

It's very similar to the notchy feel when you can't get into first at a stand still. But occurring in between an upper gear or two. I'm thinking 3-4th maybe. I should have pin-pointed the gear/gears before posting...my bad. Any thoughts though, or is it just something I'll have to learn to live with?

Thanks,
Dez

Are you using a motorcycle rated oil (that won't mess up the wet clutch)?

I wouldn't recommend straight 30W oil for the KLX, and I'd suspect the old oil in this shifting issue you're having. Many Kawasakis, and to be honest, many wet/shared clutch and crankcase bikes are sensitive to small shifting issues with oil wear. It's odd but the older the oil gets, shifting often gets a little notchy until a fresh oil change. I'm not sure of all the exact chemical and engineering reasons, but it's been a fairly common and known small issue for some time. The 30W oil probably isn't helping this issue regardless of being new, fresh oil, but who knows. Stay with multiviscosity oil on these watercooled bikes.

make sure you don't have TOO MUCH oil.. I've over filled the oil before and it messes with the shifting big time. Burp a bit out and see if it fixes things... but make sure its still visible in the sight glass!

Yea, dump that straight 30W and put something more appropriate in it. 10W-40 or so. Mine lives on 15W-50 DELO and the shifting is fine right upto when I change it (3000kms)

g:cool:

Thanks for all the responses. Clutch action is perfect as mentioned in the op. Oil level is spot on. I'll be switching to a multi-grade next change, as the weather cools down.

I'm thinking it is mechanical, and more than likely, the nature of the beast. (Based on discussions here re the shift drum problems of later models)

I'm probably going to put the kickstarter kit on the bike this winter, and will investigate the issue further at that time. Thanks again to all.
Dez

I am coming from many Hondas and have never been impressed with the KLX's brakes or shifting. They work, but not as well as they could.

Yes, a better oil would be wise. The bike only holds like 1.5 quarts so it won't break the bank. You had to look pretty hard to find straight 30 weight, I don't know of anything that specs that out anymore. I like the plain 5w40 Rotella synthetic diesel engine oil from walmart.

Rather than the shift star, you could also be fighting a bent pin in the shifter. The pin limits how far up or down you can lift the lever. When it bends (as is apparently common) the shifter doesn't go far enough in one direction and you end up with half shifts. The will only effect one direction. My bike has a hard time shifting down but will shift up like a champ. Sound familiar? Year of bike makes no difference.

I have a kickstarter too and adding that will all be done on the clutch side, not the shifter side.

Several people have said they are using the diesel engine oils. It sounds like a good idea considering what they are formulated for. I think next change I'll go that route. I don't have to look further that the nearest Walmart, Autozone, Napa, or just about any parts house I've tried, for the HD 30w. If I find one that doesn't stock it, they won't be getting any more of my money. My old faithful 1977 F150 has never had anything else in it since new! I've also used it in my 2 stroke gear boxes with good results, but I change oil regularly too.

Re the shifting issues, I think it's just the engineering. The bike is a 2007, and not even broken in yet, with less than 800 miles on it. It may smooth out a bit, we'll see. I rode it twice since my original post. One 50 miler, and another 20 miles the other night. It's just a little rougher feeling than I prefer, (up & down) but works as it should. Sometimes takes an extra motion. It's really noticeable when your in 6th, and you need to click down to first in a short distance/time. Just feels really cobby. I intend to see if I can do any refining on the action, when I have the bike in surgery this winter.

I haven't seen a KLX with the kickstarter on it in the flesh. From pictures/parts fiche, it looks like the shaft is a mile long. How much shaft is exposed between the outer case and lever? The right footpeg already has me paranoid to stand on it! Hijacked my own thread, my bad.
Dez

Lots of folks are putting Rotella in bikes. Both Rotella T 15W-40 conventional and, Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic both meet the JASO MA spec. They have no friction modifiers which makes them wet clutch friendly. I also like the high zinc content. I use it in my old VW too. Good stuff.

That HD30w is like finding cans of oil. There will be a time when it is no longer offered. Does any new equipment spec it out?

The kicker on my KLX looks very normal. It doesn't stick out far. Tucks up nicely and really doesn't get used much.

The longer footpeg should already be on your 2007. The 2009+ bikes came with a shorter pug mount that must be replaced with the 2007 mount for kicker clearance as I found out the hard way after bending a mount during a desert race.