I always choke it, crank it, sometimes crack the throttle a tinny bit. Always starts within 3 seconds. Keep cranking till she starts.

 

when i first got the 2009 klx250sf...it started similar to your bike..choke out....couple few pushes of the button...after about 5,000 miles, i needed a little throttle along with the button and longer warming with choke out....after about 8,000 miles, i needed lot more throttle along with the button and almost a full minute with choke out for warming (if not, it would stall)...

simple valve check and it was out spec...changed the valve shims...i hardly need the choke...i just touch the starter button and the klx250sf starts instantly...cold mornings, i'll pull the choke to start and i just push it right in as the engine starts...don't even need to have the choke out now..i suspect one or two valves were slightly off from the beginning...maybe you should just check your valve clearance just to rule that out...

 

70+ degrees... tap the starter

50-70 degrees... tap the starter - if it doesn't go first time, tug on the choke and let go as soon as it starts

Below 50... pull the choke out, tap the starter. Push choke in when RPMs start climbing.

 

Cold starting is a topic close to my heart because I live in Canada where I ride year-round in temperatures down to -10C (15F) and I have chronically had cold starting issues since new, even after drilling the starter jet, checking KACR, valve clearances, compression, and trying all the dances others have described.

I eventually added an in-line fuel primer bulb which allows me to over-ride the float-valve and get the fuel level up in the carb so that the KLX fires up in winter with no-fuss.

Having said that, ‘cold’ is relative as others have pointed out. We have had an unusually warm summer up here with temperatures mostly in the 30-38C (85-100F) range and at those temperatures, I find that the drilled starter works exactly as advertised for cold starting. It’ll likely be your cure too if you are in an area warmer than Canada.

Now that overnight lows are getting near freezing, I am finding that I need to rely on the primer bulb again.

 

But my bike seems to like a crack on the throttle when hitting the starter button and then letting off as soon as it fires up. I don't know why, my KLR hated it (i.e. normal), but this little bike will only start if I crack the throttle about a 1/3 of the way, and then let it go about the warm up.

If someone has a theory on this, I'm all ears because it doesn't make any sense, but it's what is working. Currently fuel screw is 2 turns out. Bike seems to run fine otherwise.

 

I was wondering if its the valves
it looks so hard to check them compared to the bikes im used to where everything is accessible without taking anything apart
then having to deal with shims too

If I did that I would try to get it checked under warranty but I dont think they would do it

its doesnt take that long to start it, just longer then all the bikes ive ever had

 

I don't see any mention of using the choke with this method. Are you using the choke? I'm talking about the engine vacuum being reduced by opening the throttle and not pulling fuel through the starter jet as efficiently as it should. Trying to start the bike without the choke and opening the throttle can have so many variables due to equipment and jetting that I won't try to qualify that method. All that said, it's not a given that a cold start using the choke and opening the throttle will not allow the bike to start. It's possible to still pull enough fuel through the starter jet to start some bikes in some conditions with a given setup of jetting and equipment. I am saying that keeping the throttle closed while using the choke is more effective. That's just the physics of how the carb and choke circuit work.

 

What he said.

 

Good question...this does involve using the choke (or to be technical the "enrichener"). I have drilled the starter jet, BTW. My bike is a 2007 that only has 200 or so miles on it. I've only had it a few days, but the first thing I did was tear apart the carb and give it a serious cleaning. I expected the bike to start like the KLR, where I simply set the choke and hit the magic button and she came to life. With my KLX, it seems to like a quick hit to the throttle (with choke on) and she fires right up. I then push the choke in as it warms up and the revs start to climb. Not saying this is how it should be, but it what seems to work for mine.

The KLX manual refers to this technique should the bike flood. Makes me wonder if my float valve is working properly.

However, once it is warm it fires right up without the choke or touching the throttle. I'm open to interpretations, because my past experience is if the choke is on and one touches the throttle the bike usually dies.

 

so far all starts are now with the first push of the button even cold
but ive only started 4 times so far

maybe its getting better, or I was just lucky those times