Can you make one of your own?
If you can, I would try a 124 first, then back off the preload, and see where that gets you. |
I ran into a little bit of unplanned maintenance today, so while I was in there, I installed the 124 mm links, and looks like it lowered the rear about 3/4". I haven't tested it yet, but as soon as I do, I'll post up the results.
It was good to see that, after 2 yrs of riding, the shock, and linkage bearings, and seals were like new. |
I bought some links off e-bay awhile back that were just a little longer than m ystock links. It lowered the back enough that when I sit on the seat I can touch the heel of my feet instead of just the toes. Do you know if it absolutely essential to lower the forks a smidge as well. I have heard that it is not needed unless you are making a drastic change in height of the bike.
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In theory, whatever you do to the back, you should also do to the front, to maintain the same handling. If you're happy with it the way it is now, then leave it.
I went out for my first ride with the links yesterday. Didn't notice any difference on the street (although it sure was nice being able to easily touch the ground), but offroad I felt a big difference, and not in a good way. The steering was not as quick (my forks were already moved up as far as possible), the rear suspension felt worse, not better, and the one thing I never thought of was ground clearance. I caught my right side peg a few times in the woods, where I never had before. I'll leave it on, try it some more, and maybe make a preload adjustment. If i still don't like it, I'll go back to stock. I really like being able to almost flat foot it. |
I re-adjusted my sag to 100 mm, and have been riding the bike like that.
It's softer, and more plush, and for my weight, better and closer matched to the front in the woods. With just the drop, and no sag adjustment, the rate was soft enough that the back tire was hitting under the fender. After the sag was reset, that's fine now. The first post has the numbers edited in for the 2" drop (thanks Magoo!) |
Cutting down the seat foam can help w/o sacrificing wheel travel. I have'nt done it so I can't comment on how the cover is attached. staples or glued on
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Originally Posted by RaceGass
(Post 420138)
Cutting down the seat foam can help w/o sacrificing wheel travel. I have'nt done it so I can't comment on how the cover is attached. staples or glued on
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Originally Posted by RaceGass
(Post 420138)
Cutting down the seat foam can help w/o sacrificing wheel travel.
Lowering links increase wheel travel. I have lowered the seat on my KDX, but I ride the KLX on the street, too, and the last thing it needs is a less comfortable seat :) |
Originally Posted by zomby woof
(Post 420194)
Lowering links increase wheel travel.
I'm 5'7 and can tippy toe both sides at the same time, but usually just lean it a touch and use one foot. Once you get used to it this way it's not bad. The upside of learning to live with it is that you will still have the stock geometry, more clearance, and more travel. Dan |
Originally Posted by dan888
(Post 420205)
Huh?? If lowering links lower the rear end, you are using up some of your suspension travel. Lowering links decrease the amount of travel before bottoming out.
I'm 5'7 and can tippy toe both sides at the same time, but usually just lean it a touch and use one foot. Once you get used to it this way it's not bad. The upside of learning to live with it is that you will still have the stock geometry, more clearance, and more travel. Dan |
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