I'm only up to 70 so far but it's below freezing here now (I did ride it to work today at 27F [&:]

I'm really eager to find a good skid plate now after my rock climing weekend. I think Utah Sport Cycle sells one but I'm still looking around.

Also, I've decided to order one of these rectangular LED replacement reflectors from electrical connection to replace the reflector above the license plate (http://www.electricalconnection.com/...-rectangle.htm) because I'm a huge believer in having as much rear facing lighting as possible. I'll hook a flashing module up to it to get cagers attention at stop lights.

 

Hey Todd, you got me thinking of being seen by other driverrs while ridding, I found this website, and thought you would be interested. I too could use all the help I can get, and if you have any suggestions I would love to hear them. Also I found a skid plate somewhere a week or so ago, but for the life of me I can't find it again. Oh well, check out the site, and let me know what you think. Another thing I would like to look into, it some sort of front fender extensions, to keep the water spray off the top, and the mud off the engine at the bottom. I remember like 20 years ago some of the enduros had a rubber extension piece on the front fender. But I also want it to look good. Later man.

deej

 

So I found a change I want to make already, besides taking the front sprocket down a tooth, I need to extend the front fender in both directions, I'm thinking of a black rubber mud flap material, shaped to the fender and riveted with washered rivets, what do you think? The front fender is just too short to keep the water and mud off the top of the fender and the light. Also on the low end, the engine is getting plastered. But other than that, I am very happy with the choice I made.

deej

 

Hmmmm I forgot to actually put the link in, I must be getting old, (41) sorry, Here you go. Sorry about that Todd.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/

 

Going down a tooth in front might be a good idea. I'm going to wait until it's broke in a bit more before I decide on that.

As for my first change, I did the bars and added hand guards. I wanted more height so I went with an ATV bar (Renthal Yamaha Raptor 80 bend). There’s just enough slack in all the cables and wires to make the swap but I did have to remove the number plate and free up some slack in the wires by removing and re-installing some wire-ties. I also installed Pro Grip 737 gel grips and Cycra Pro Bend hand guards. Turns out the stock bars have plugs welded in the end so changing the bars was a must-do for the hand guards to work. The brake line rubbed on the Cycra inner mount on the left when I first got things bolted up. I re-located one of the brake line guides from the top triple clamp mount to the hand guard mount so the brake line can ride up and down with fork travel without rubbing on the hand guard.

The Raptor 80 bars added about 1.5� vertical lift while matching the other dimensions of the stock bars perfectly. They make standing on the bike perfect for me now. Plus they weigh about half as much as the stockers which should offset the weight penalty of the hand guards.

Next up: Pelican 1200, mini-voltmeter, and some flashing LED lighting to the rear…

 

I tried to look up the Pelican voltmeter, but no luck, do you have a link? Also so you are saying that the handguards I bought from Acerbees won't go into the bars I have? Hmmm. Hey did you find a skid plate yet? If so post a link. Later Todd.

Deric

 

Sorry, I ment a Pelican 1200 case http://www.casesbypelican.com/app-1200.htm. They make great little top boxes that are waterproof and can be locked.

The voltmeter I'm going to use is a little LED unit from Electrical Connection http://www.electricalconnection.com/...icators/bm.htm

The bars have built in bar end weights that make use of handguards impossible unless you want to do some major drilling. I replaced my bars with Renthals and couldn't be happier.

 

HEY GUYS, I have been following your post on the klx250 between the two of you. I am sold. I to have been tring to figure out what i wanted Drz400s to heavy,others the same. If i may ask what was the cost OTD? Also i have seen posts on way under powered? But it sound like slight regear and the problem most likely will be solved. Have either of you seen any performance write ups? I have seen articles (on other four srokes) were they talk about uncorking from what i can tell they open up the air box in specific locations, remove a baffle from exh. K&N air filter and a dyno jet kit and apparently this unleashes the ponys so they say. I sat on one this past sunday and i liked.
Well enough rambling from me, any info would be appreciated, I have two dealers within 15 miles and they both have two in stock so i might up and riding by this weekend
Thanks again.

Scat
Everett WA.

 

Hey Scat, welcome to the site. I only found this site a month ago when I decided to buy the KLX250S. Welcome, and hey you're only about 3.5 hours from where I am. Nice to see someone from Washington. I actually work for the University of Washington, out here in Forks Washington. www.onrc.washington.edu Anyway, when you are looking for a bike, you have to ask yourself a couple of question, because once you buy the bike you can't change the use too much. What I mean by that is I wanted a bike that would be great back and forth from work, ok I have less than a 2 mile commute, (the guys at the U hate me, when I tell them I might see one car on the way to work) But I also wanted to get back into trail ridding from my younger days. So for me anything bigger than this bike would be either too heavy (KLX650) or too much power in a two stroke, or else you have to buy a race bike and put the dual sport kit on it, and that can be 3-500 bucks. So for me this bike was and proves to be the perfect choice for me. Depending on how long you plan on keeping it, look into the extended warranty. I plan on keeping it for a long time, so I added 4 more years to the warranty, but in the event that I have to sell it for some reason its transferable. I just wanted piece of mind. I Weigh 230-235, so I think I am pushing the weight to power factor a bit, but it seems to really scoot me around, I am planning on one change right away, in order to get a little more power (low end torque) I am going to drop the front sprocket down by 1 or 2 teeth. That way I can go really slow on the trails in 1st gear. Also check out the article on mototuneusa, in the link, It was news to me, but made perfect sense, just don't tell the dealer what you are up to. Anyway keep us posted, and feel free to add me to you're favorites lists I am on Trillian with MSN IM, Yahoo, and AIM, but don't forget to post in here too. And to everyone don't hesitate to use any of my contact information. Sometimes I feel like I will never be disconnected[sm=guilty.gif]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



IM derickettel@hotmail.com
Yahoo deej1914
AIM deej1914

Work e-mail dkettel@u.washington.edu

Home e-mail dkettel@centurytel.net

 

I would add that the power (or lack of) is not a problem for me either (6', 210lbs plus lots of gear). It's a big come down from my hotted-up KLR650 but the bike is 100lbs lighter vs. the way my 650 was configured.

I will most likely re-jet, open the airbox, and go with an aftermarket pipe after I get 1K miles on the clock. However, I may not since the few times I've let it rev past 6K I've felt the real strength of the engine and it's not bad at all.