So.... I removed the carb, disassembled, cleaned all passages with a wire and compressed air. Everything appeared open and patent. I ordered and replaced the pilot jet with an OEM. Rechecked float function and level again. Pilot screw is also new and OEM, turned out 21/2 turns.
bike would not start initially. Sprayed starting fluid down spark plug hole, and it started and continued to run in its own. It is slow to return to idle after acceleration, all clamps and boots are tight. Any suggestions on this? Also, the vaccuum nipple on the intake side of the carb, I have it plugged, but should it be....thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions or help....tonebone

 

Set idle speed to 1250 - 1300 rpm. If engine won't do this, there are still issues.

Slow return to idle could be vacuum leak somewhere between the carb and the engine, not carb to air filter. Such a leak would likely also affect idle quality ( But only if idle speed is set to the correct spec of 1250 to1300 rpm) So determining such a leak is quite easy to do.

Other possibility is the slide mechanism. Improper indexing of the slide spring during reassembly, stiction between the slide and the carb casting, improper seating of the diaphragm, etc..

See my link below on troubleshooting the CVK for the possibilities...

 

So the idle rpm went down to 1500 or so. Idles and returns to idle fine now. I’ve never owned a single cylinder bike before, but this thing is a dog when it comes to acceleration. I took the air filter lid off and it is slightly better, but I decel pop sometimes. Not sure what baseline performance should be, but I’m gonna order a new air filter. Any comments/suggestions on the performance of this thing? Thanks in advance

 

I guess I should mention, I don’t know anything about any mods, if any, have been done to this bike. I know the carb is stock set up, and there is a FMF pipe/muffler on it. Thanks

 

You should try a Honda 50, then get on your kawa.

 

I’ve got a Powerwheels 12volt Gator, will that work too?

 

Once the carb is working correctly and the bike running right, you can choose from two lidless mod combos. Each one is a radical increase in performance. See either "Dyno Tuning..." links below..

 

Until the engine can be made to have a strong, stable, idle at 1250-1300 rpms, there are still problems.

Setting the idle speed too high masks problems by engaging additional fueling circuits (transfer ports) in order to keep the engine running. The transfer ports are not designed to provide fueling for idle and using them in this fashion (via the butterfly valve stop screw being set to open the valve too far.) will cause other running issues.

 

Ok, I’ve got a good idle, the bike has weak acceleration. No way this thing could pass another vehicle, just no accelerating/ power. I’ve taken the snorkel out just to see if it was starving for air, no help.
klxster, I’ve seen your posts about lidless, and jetting, but I don’t see the references your are talking about in your response.where would I find them? Thanks

 

The links are all on my signature line.. This means every post I make offers the links..

If you think the valves are within specs, all seals are sealing in the induction system, no leaks in the exhaust system, etc.. Then you have a 18-20hp 300lb bike that revs quickly and smoothly to 10,500 rpm. The meat of the powerband is in the 6k - 8.5k rpm area where accels should be "brisk"..

Point being, if the bike is now operating perfectly, you are ready to explore additional performance with two Lidless recipes. Full performance exhaust recipe or stock header + performance slipon recipe..
If you DO have one of the FMF headers and a un-muzzled FMF slipon, you'll get a 25% increase in HP with the Lidless DJ144 recipe.