i think my engine is dying :eek: SOS
 

my engine sounds REALY bad it has this knocking sound.

i am thinking my rod bearing is shot, so i may have to either toss the bike or rebuild.

what are your thoughts

Yea, I think you have a big problem, but it is not in the engine!

ouch :(

Don't mind him.. He's frequently off his meds - just search on all his posts for a good read on a tortured soul wanting to spread the misery..

Thx

still leaves me sitting with what to do with the bike. perhaps a good sleep will clear my head.

I was hoping someone else would bring up this point since when I do some tend to think I'm just trying to sell parts. I'm not, I am just pointing out this possibility.

Have you gone to a manual cam chain tensioner? I noticed the rapping goes down significantly as you bring up the rpm. That could be the chain is pulled tight on the front run as rpm increases, the tensioner can hold the chain play in check then. It is when the throttle is backed off and idling the rap is really loud. Reminiscent of the noise my 650 made. That is when the cam drive can whip around a bit, pushing the tensioner in and it snapping back out.

If it has a manual tensioner and it is properly adjusted, if that rapping is still there, now you could be talking bearings.

If it doesn't have the tensioner swap, it's a heck of a lot cheaper to try a new tensioner than to tear down an engine only to find out it was a trashed tensioner. The tensioner will look fine, but you have to pay attention to the wear pattern that will be visible on the plunger rack teeth and the back side of the plunger rack will be polished over 1/4-1/2 inch where it is sliding in and out. If that bad it is also to the point where there is risk of jumping timing with the chain at the crank - chain breakage or valves meet piston.

atm a manual is installed and set just tight enoug so tha the buzzing is gone ( defective auto chain buzzing at 5-6k rpm)

set during cold engine as loose i dare so it will not be to tight when warmed up (i hope)

That is your piston hitting the cylinder wall, quite normal.

In car engines, if the rod bearing has too much clearance, the knocking volume increases with the load on the engine. I would guess that this would carry over to cycle engine.

Ride on
Brewster

You're right on the tensioner adjustment unless it is too loose, but I don't think so. It would have to be way out for that kind of rattle, but you will know if you do the following:

You need to locate the noise - where is it coming from - more specifically. If you can't tell by listening in general you can use a long handle screwdriver, but I prefer a mechanic's stethoscope (less than $4 at Harbor Freight) placing the tip around different places on the head, cylinder, and cases. When the noise is the loudest you have identified where it is at.

http://www.diseno-art.com/images_2/m...tethoscope.jpg

Piston rock should be loudest on the front or back of the cylinder, cam drive would be in the area of the cam drive, valves in the head area, and bearings in the case area. See if you can get the noise localized. Then you will know what to do.

Thx for the imput gonna give it a carefull listen next weekend, since my front right valve needs a 0.05 smaller shim.

gonna try and strap a mic on the bike (around engine) during the week to get more audio to listen to.

btw how are the symptoms of stretched/worn cam chain or guides?

thought came to me since the previus owner may have run a long time before i changed the tensioner.

The sound is definitely cam chain slack. I had the same as well.

Someone with a stock exhaust and a manual tensioner should post up their engine sound!

here is a sound bite from a short ride up and down the street

im going slow since it is in town

also try holding clutch at speed to see if sound changes

this is a mix of 10-25% throttle

PS. sorry abour the wind

pps the mic is hanging left side above engine from the air injection junk (finaly usefull)

it is very fain but you can hear a high pitched chatter (aside from the diesel valves)

small update
today i replaced my cam chain and guides
old chain was about 1/4 link longer than the old one. and the rear chain guide had some damage.
i am currently missing a new water pump housing gasket, will order a new one i two weeks. untill then i will try some sealent as a temp fix.

ps also noticed my cams now line up better to a MCM picture (2½tooth out)

How many miles do you have on the bike?
And how long is the chain in inches?

it has bout 14k miles
the previus owner ran the bike a long time with a faulty CCT.
sorry i do not have a way to measure inches my gues is about 1/8 to 13/64 inches longer then the new chain

The only way to measure the elongation wear is to know the total length of the chain. Measure it in millimeters, centimeters, meters, inches, feet, or yards; I can do the conversion! My guess it would be it's about a meter long? Don't measure it in liters though.

had the new and the old chain next to each other before i installed the new one

so from top to bottom there was about 1/4 link difference

the difference was like shown in this video i found

Cam chain measurement, per the manual, pin to pin over 20 links should be max at 128.9mm standard is 127.0-127.4 They say to measure a few places to be sure.

Well, if the chain was 60 links long, maximum length would be .22 inches (almost about 1/4") for english people, for peabrains it would be about 5.7mm.

measured a few times and got to about 128.6mm on avg (higest being 129.1)

Update

after fixing (temp) the leaky water pump i started the bike up this morning,

1. much more smooth cold start (no more jumping 2000-3000 rpm for the first 30 secs)

2. The krieger cam tensioner had to be backed off about 10-12mm compared to before

3. engine reves more smooth (no top end rattleing)

now the only problem remaining is that my clutch is not working.

1. When i hold the clutch lever in the bike will lurch and stall when put in gear.
(i have tryed adjusting the cable untill the adjuster is almost out)

2. with the bike on a stand and running in gear i cannot engage the clutch even when turning the arm on the cover.

3. started the bike in gear i pulls fine no slipping in gear 1-4. and pulling the clutch when moving will let you rev the enging and you feel the clutch drag.

any ideas?

Update

Clutch now working, took it apart cleaned it and reasembled it. (will engauge and disengauge, did not test ride due to heavy rain)

some plates are blue, and there was some brown sticky material causing drag.
i think a new clutch kit is in order in the near future.

Is the EBC DRC any good for street riding?