homemade fork preload spacers
 

Will go ahead and reference Nobrakes excellent thread with pics of fork disassembly and spring change: https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...highlight=fork

I'm going to attempt making my own preload spacers until I get some cash ahead to buy stiffer springs, which is obviously the preferred option. Thanks to Zombie Woof for the spacer idea. Except I couldn't find the 1.5 inch steel tubing he used. So, I got a hard plastic fluid coupler from Tractor Supply. Easy to cut to size and seems very thick and durable. Hopefully it'll work.

The coupler is pretty darn close to the exact inside diameter of the fork tube, so there's little chance it would get kinked at an angle. $3.79 for the coupler. Fork cap in the pic to give sort of an idea how it fits together.

http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0972.JPG

End up with two 1-inch spacer halves:
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0974.JPG
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0976.JPG
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0977.JPG

Won't get a chance to finish the job until Friday; will try to post more pics then.

Lookin' forward to the results.

That'll work fine. I did it on my '94 rf900.

Excellent job!

Sweet!

When I had one of these at the tender age of 17, I put lots of 2 pence pieces on top of the springs until the ride dive was gone. They were the perfect shim, easy to stack and only cost .....2 pence each.:D Old tricks eh!

Heading down to Bunnings now for that "tractor coupling."

https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/Ga...087%20%201.jpg

Went ahead and cut the spacers down to an even 7/8ths because didn't know how hard it would be to hold the spring down to get a wrench on the nut, which would now be under the washer.
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0981.JPG

Didn't turn out to be too difficult, just gotta wedge and pry until the cap threads onto the shaft.
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0984.JPG
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0986.JPG
Then had to wedge a screwdriver between the spacer and washer to get the nut back down to the spring guide, and finally tighten the nut against the cap, but it wasn't a big deal.
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_0987.JPG

Once assembled, I could tell pretty quick the front end was higher and the kickstand a wee bit short. Wish I had taken some baseline sag measurements (doh!).

Before:
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/oldwoodburyhwy.jpg
After:
http://www.truckwithaheart.com/IMG_1001.JPG
Pics don't show much, if any, difference. Only had a chance to ride about 10 miles and the nosedive seems a little better, although I honestly couldn't tell much difference. I'm pretty much a noob (only been riding 2 years), so I don't have a refined feel for it. Maybe I'll realize an improvement on the next ride or two. If not, I'll be ordering some stiffer springs in the very near future.

Side note: just past the break-in period, so I briefly touched wide open throttle for the first time and got an indicated 83mph. Figure that's good for about 75, allowing 10% speedo error. Think she'd do an honest 80 mph if held open a little longer.

If you stiffen up the compression adjusters you wil also see a difference in front end dive.

And you should be adjusting the damping, if you've affected the compression force.
The .75" spacer made a HUGE difference on my bike.

Ok, just got back from a long enough ride that I wasn't fixated on it, and yes, I can tell it's much improved now. Actually, I think it's about where I want it. :) Except it does raise the front end more than I want, so I'll still consider some new springs maybe later.

Interesting how much higher you can make this bike by adjusting preload. I'm 5ft9 and actually had to tip-toe at stops more than my KLR on soft settings.