So like I said last time, I'm a first time bike owner, so excuse the ignorance. I'm learning!

So I had a gas leak issue. I removed the carb, disassembled, unclogged the blockage in the jet which was likely the cause of gas pouring out of the drain tubes.

In the process of dissassembling the carb I noticed two small washers that fell off in the process. Wasn't sure from where until I read about shimming the needle. Anyway, when I had a mechanic look at the carb to see if there was anything I was missing he suggested I just move the washer thingy already on the carb needle down two spots and get rid of the shims. So I did.

The bike DEFINITELY has less power and acceleration now. Feels weak and laggy. I'm guessing this is a result of removing the shims.

Questions: Can/should I replace the shims, and can I do so by just removing the top off the carb and shimming (rather than remove the whole carb which is a pain)? Is there anything else I could have done that would have resulted in the same symptoms (less power)?

Thanks for your input!

Josh

 

Very likely, those two small washers are needle shims. I'm going by memory of the stock setup, but I seem to recall that one washer went below the needle clip and one above. But, this parts Fiche (Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts 2012 KLX250TCF KLX250S CARBURETOR Diagram) doesn't show any washers/shims. Does your needle have 5 or so 'grooves' around the stop of the needle? If so, it's likely an aftermarket (dynojet?) needle. From your description, it sounds like it.

You should be able to loosen the carb and remove the top cover and take out the diaphragm, then remove the needle and put the washers on. I would suggest putting the clip back to the original position - if the mechanic moved the clip down 2 positions, it's likely running too rich (source of the bogging) too soon, by opening up the main jet too much/too soon. Once the clip is in the original position, try one washer above and one below the clip. Somewhere, somebody measure the washers/shims and found that it took several of them to equal one clip position on the needle. So, even if you had both washers below the clip, moving the clip down 2 positions (with any washers), was likely more like having 4 washers below the clip.

Hopefully others who've worked on the carb more recently (and have better recollection than me) will chime in shortly.

 

Thanks RGMR. That's a great description. I'm not to sure about the needle being aftermarket or not, I'll check it out when I take the carb apart again. One question. Why shim above the clip? To prevent it from rising too much?

Thanks again!
J

 

I didn't find any reason to shim above the clip - makes no sense - doesn't seem to do anything from what I can tell. I just seem to recall the instructions for mine showing a shim/washer below the clip, and one above. I read on one forum somebody said that it was just a good place to keep the shim, so you don't lose it. Then, if you decide you need to raise the needle 1/2 a clip position, you can move the shim from the above to below the clip.

 

I'm pretty sure that none of the KLX250's came stock with a needle that has more than one clip position. So, if you have multiple 'grooves' in the needle for different clip positions (seems that you do), then I think you have an aftermarket needle, maybe even a dynojet kit has already been installed? I'm not sure that I personally would put a huge amount of faith in the mechanic - his advice didn't sound like 'expert' advice to me.

 

Sorry I'm a little late to this party.. The washers are required. You have a DJ needle (And kit.) or a N1TC KLX300 needle (And a carb setup based on Kawa/Keihin parts.

Yes you are learning - unfortunately, learning the hard way in this instance.. This "mechanic" that advised you - find another one, as that one knows nothing about the CVK..
You actually could find a good/knowledgeable KLX mechanic by asking them what the washers are for on the DJ needle..lol

Used in the normal way, both washers sit above the clip. So put the clip back where it was and put two washers above it.. You can get more washers from DynoJet...

The washers stabilize the needle in the slide.. The white nylon "hat" is designed to stabilize a needle with a .060 thick "retainer", which is what the stock needle has - the clip and two washers create that thickness with the DJ or N1 needles..

 

Also, as you seem to understand, being "new" to carbs is dangerous to being able to enjoy your bike..

Go slow and careful - know that everything you see and handle inside the carb can and will cause you to miss your next ride if mishandled or mis-installed..


While this post is likely beyond your CURRENT skills with the CVK, you can get an idea of what all can go wrong with taking your carb apart.. https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-fixes-43146/

 

Dynojet instructions show the washers above the clip.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2152.pdf

 

I know I always harp on this, but when working on something it really pays to clean the area you are working in first.

Carbs, in particular, benefit from a brightly lit work environment and your own comfortable seating. Really, brighter is better.

Take the time to really look at things before taking them apart. Take pictures of anything that looks confusing to put back together. I realize that people are busy, but if you set aside uninterrupted time to work on your project.

I have a cheap loupe for looking working on delicate things and it's amazing. When I get stuff together to work on a carb it's always on the list.

Just preparation and going slow will prevent so many problems.

 

I have the KLX300 Kiehin parts in my carb - works great, easy. If those parts were used in your carburetor there is a collar on top of the needle for that set up:



P/N 92143-1667, the Kaw parts images only show the prefix number, but that is the whole part number.

You can compare numbers on your parts for the 300 parts which will have Keihin numbers or DJ with their numbers. They don't mach up.

In my signature there is a KLX250S cheap mods link. The part numbers are there with the sizes to maybe help determine which jetting had been done.

That K on this jet is the Keihin logo and will be on their parts:



Keihin parts are available through the Kaw dealers or on line from places like Jets-r-us

If it is the Kawasaki set up, it was virtually plug and play on both my brother's 2006 and my 2009, his with a 300 pipe and mine with the stock pipe. The sizes were within one size one way or the other on the pilot (dead on for 1000ft elevation) and one or two on the main (we used a Dial-A-Jet to compensate for leanness). We used the big snorkel because of off roading, leaving the lid on to keep water/mud out. Going lidless will take a bit richer jetting, which, in our case the Dial-A-Jet will cover. I've intended to pull the lid and see what happens on mine, but never think of it when time is available.

If it is Dyno Jet brass Klxter has done the most work using them and has good information to get you darn close if not spot on.