So I have two Kawasaki Mojaves they are both stock to my knowledge. I just got done rebuilding one completely stock. My confusion Is that the bike i rebuilt is better on gas then the other bike but lacks some of the power. Is this due to jetting? If so what could I do to achieve the same results with both bikes.

 

Sorry Kcollins.. I have no clue..The main reason I have no clue is because you don't know much about your Mojaves..E.G. "to my knowledge"..

However, if you are serious about this, and assuming both carbs are identical model numbers, take both carbs completely apart, compare the components and the "sizes" of the components (main jet sizes, pilot jet sizes, emulsion tubes, needle jets, needles, slide lift ports, slide springs).... Set up the one you don't like, like the one you do like..

 

Putting my carb back together.. I had the bottom bowl face down with some pressure on it and the overflow tube on the inside of the bowl that controls the fill level broke snapped off at the base. How screwed am I? I dont see either of the components for sale individually on the part diagram.

 

It would seem you are in the market for a CVK32 from a motorcycle "junk yard".

 

Omitted*

 

I have a CVK32 that was removed from a 2007 KLX250S to install a Mikuni Pumper
$25 plus shipping if anyone is interested just PM me or use e-mail ldpippin08@gmail.com

 

*update*
I fixed my issue.. I ordered a float bowl from a 1995 kx250 from ebay. I also fixed the original float bowl by replacing the float height tube with a tube from a mini bike rebuild kit. Tube length from base to top of float height was 1.295". The replacement one was like 1.300" so pretty close. I also want to point out that the part numbers on the float bowls were identical yet you cant actually buy this piece by itself which I think is bs. Anyway I decided to use the float bowl from the kx250 and keep the other one incase I needed it.

I had to tune the carb to get the bike back running. This was my first time doing it or anything like this but eventually I got the idle to 1500 - 2000 and the bike will rev high with a quick return to a strong idle. I was able to make adjustments while the bike was running by taking a flathead screwdriver bit and turning it as hard as I could by finger.. i found that even when i thought the idle speed screw and idle mixture screw were "in range" of eachother, i still had some refining to do..

Would also like to add: if it starts and wont hold idle but will rev then turn the idle mixture screw out. If it starts and giving it gas kills the engine, turn idle mix screw in.

 

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Hello KLxster, just watched your video of you pulling wheelies on your KLX from low-speed runs. I would love to get that kind of torque (or something close to it out of my new-to-me '09 KLX250SF. It's got 10,000 miles on it and a DG slip-on muffler. I know it has a jet kit (unknown make) because I have the carb apart and the main jet is marked "127.5" and the pilot is marked "42". This bike has a higher rpm (7200), at part throttle, stutter that I want to eliminate. I put a new spark plug in just to do my due diligence--it shows a dark brown color.
I can see from the threads and postings on exhaust and jetting set-ups you have spent considerable time and money doing research to figure out how to mod this bike. I also read your comments on the "lid vs. lidless" airbox setup; my bike currently has a stock airfilter and I was going to remove the snorkel only to see how that does. I appreciate any info or light you can shine on tuning this thing. My gut reaction was to return everything to stock, carb and exhaust, as I am an old-school mechanic (69 years old, former car and light truck mechanic).
My end goal is to use this bike as a daily driver, but just as importantly I am ging to do some portion of the NEBDR in the next few weeks (I know, really compressing the time-line here).
Thanks again,
Will

 

Use the lidless recipe for stock header ( and the DJ140 main jet ) . Follow the recipe exactly and precisely. Then perform the MCM cam retime mod. Done.