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-   -   cutting out after re jet (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/cutting-out-after-re-jet-42107/)

44snot24s 06-20-2014 11:00 PM

cutting out after re jet
 
just did the basic mods to the bike opened air box, uni air filter, 13t sprocket, and dyno jet kit put the 128 in it along with the provided needle on the 3rd clip and it starts fine but immediately cuts out when giving it throttle. ran the 128 cause have a exhaust coming this week and didn't want to have to pull it out again when it came. everything is reconnected the right way so I'm at a loss like i said starts and idles fine at like 1250-1500 but dies right when give it throttle of any kind

44snot24s 06-21-2014 03:15 AM

fixed my own stupidity got in a rush and didnt pay attention

TheDoc46 06-23-2014 09:41 AM

What was it? So others do not make the same mistake ?

44snot24s 06-24-2014 12:01 AM

To many hours at work and to late at night lol joking aside mistake on reassembling carb with new needle stupid mistake from rushing didn't put needle in right and it came loose wanted to kick my self after seeing it

Rock Hugger 06-24-2014 02:34 AM

Now that you have that fixed how does it run? Big difference in performance?

44snot24s 06-25-2014 01:09 AM

Yup running like a champ now big difference got a hmf pipe I bought off Idridr coming Monday to so that will be nice tried to do it all at once. Next is some better springs and the 351 kit to really livin it up

IDRIDR 06-25-2014 01:48 AM


Originally Posted by 44snot24s (Post 512063)
Yup running like a champ now big difference got a hmf pipe I bought off Idridr coming Monday to so that will be nice tried to do it all at once. Next is some better springs and the 351 kit to really livin it up

I hope the new-to-you pipe works well. Here are some suggestions:
Pull the stock pipe, put on the new pipe as a test fit. It probably won't align up perfectly. Loosening the header bolts should help if fit isn't great to begin with. Make it fit nicely, then tighten up the header and hanger bolts before the next step. Don't break off a header bolt!

Get some red RTV or equivalent and apply somewhat liberally at the slip-on / header connection. Let set for 24+ hours, then tighten the clamp. You want the RTV to set up for a while before tightening the clamp to lessen the chance of leaks. It took me a couple times to get it right. Air leaks into the exhaust will likely result in decel popping.

44snot24s 06-25-2014 08:20 PM

Thanks Idridr was hoping it'd come this week so could ride with it this weekend but hey I can wait seems like all the vids of it I see sound good so I'm excited for that. Did you just run the stock head pipe when you had it?

IDRIDR 06-25-2014 09:46 PM

I used it with both the stock header and the FMF Powerbomb header.
You can see it with the PB header in my 351 Build thread (see sig line). Looking at those pics just reminded me...the stock silencer has two connection points. The HMF and FMF only have one, which places quite a load on the one connection point. Following TNC's lead, I fabricated a muffler hanger bracket. See details in the 351 Build (link to the post on the first page). I don't think that bracket is essential. Most riders here with aftermarket slip-ons don't report hanger failure. But keep an eye on the hanger and look for fatigue.

I used my bolt and spacer from the HMF you're getting when I installed the FMF. So, you may need to find a longer bolt and spacer or a handfull of washers.

44snot24s 06-28-2014 02:04 PM

Ok no prob how was it with header any difference?


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