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-   -   cam chain adjuster/tensioner (https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/klx-250s-71/cam-chain-adjuster-tensioner-39691/)

chainslack Feb 9, 2013 03:54 PM

cam chain adjuster/tensioner
 
I know the thing is auto adjusting but does the shop manual tell us how to position the cam chain and remove and reinstall or possibly preload the tensioner?
There is some info here that says some of the tensioners are problematic and I don't know if that means they allow the chain to get continually sloppier deliver too much tension on it?
How can we look after it??

Thanks, Steve F

IDRIDR Feb 9, 2013 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by chainslack (Post 490058)
I know the thing is auto adjusting but does the shop manual tell us how to position the cam chain and remove and reinstall or possibly preload the tensioner?
There is some info here that says some of the tensioners are problematic and I don't know if that means they allow the chain to get continually sloppier deliver too much tension on it?
How can we look after it??

Thanks, Steve F

I believe the shop manual explains it. Do not preload it, and don't force an adjustment. The spring is all the tension it should have. Problematic auto tensioners do allow the chain to get sloppy, and when that happens the noise is like a coffee can with rocks, shaken not stirred, around 5K rpm. Krieger, maker of a great manual tensioner, makes a good argument that the auto tensioner can also put too much tension on the chain, especially if a forced adjustment is made.

durielk Feb 9, 2013 07:15 PM

Before installing the stock tensioner, you release it all the way & install it allowing max chain slack or slop. When you start the engine, it automatically tightens up to take up slack. Some have experienced excessive chain slack/noise and replace with manual adjusters. I run the stock on after rebuild, the stock unit is working for me.

linkin5 Feb 10, 2013 12:35 AM

When it quits working you'll know.

IDRIDR Feb 10, 2013 04:21 AM


Originally Posted by linkin5 (Post 490094)
When it quits working you'll know.

he he. ain't that the truth!

Some of the stock auto tensioners work many years and miles without fail. You WILL know if you have half of an ear.

Lotrat Feb 10, 2013 04:28 PM

2 Attachment(s)
A good tensioner will only allow movement one way. When you take it out, you'll see. Before you put it back in, you need to remove the spring otherwise it will fully extend on you. You install the base first, and then the spring mechanism. It's straightforward once you look it it. Mine failed and allowed the plunger to push back in. You can see the shinny spot on the plunger. It was slipping 5 teeth or so. The noise wasn't as loud as some describe, but I had a rattle I knew wasn't right.

chainslack Feb 12, 2013 04:08 PM

Thanks, I saved your pics and text and got the manual info also.
If I want to remove and reinstall my tensioner do I put the engine in a certain position as if I was coming back together from a valve adjustment?

TNC Feb 12, 2013 04:11 PM


Originally Posted by chainslack (Post 490262)
Thanks, I saved your pics and text and got the manual info also.
If I want to remove and reinstall my tensioner do I put the engine in a certain position as if I was coming back together from a valve adjustment?

The engine doesn't have to be in a specific position when you pull the tensioner and reinstall it, but you must not move/rotate the engine at all before properly reinstalling the tensioner.

chainslack Feb 12, 2013 04:58 PM

Good Help--thank you

ahnh666 Feb 12, 2013 06:06 PM

you can remove it whenever you like....just make sure you reset it (push it all the way in) before putting it back in....but, you need to take it out when you do the valve adjustments and you are taking the chain off the cams...


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