Busted camchain tensioner!
 

Hi Guys
I thought you might like to see my Camchain Tensioner repair I made last week on my 1996 KLX250G. It has only done 8500 miles, almost 5000 by me in the last 14 months, so was surprised when the tensioner failed. The repair was as simple as I could make it, always best I find, and just involved ditching the spring, threading the Cap bolt to take 1/4 inch x 2 inch bolt.
This photo should give you an idea how it works!

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...pictureid=2337

The adjustment was carried out on a warm engine with the engine running at idle speed. I stopped turning the bolt just short of eliminating all chain noise, an over tight chain is worse than a slack one!
I've done about 70 miles since with no problems. And the best bit is, it only cost 80 pence.:D

I never saw one like that with the auto tensioner and an adjustment nut. Nice job on the fix! :)

Great idea! Seems like it will work just fine!

Did you drill out the bolt then tap it? Or did you find a hollow bolt somewhere?

I just drilled out the old cap bolt, had a nice thick top, and threaded it to suit the new adjusting bolt. Had to weld a blob on the bolt end to stop it screwing itself into the plunger.

Lexicon, that sounds like a clever idea. I have a question about the ratchet portion of the OEM plunger. Does the ratchet system still function? If it still functions, I don't think I see the difference of the method we used when taking off the end cap and just manually pushing in the plunger with an allen wrench or such to take up the slack. I would agree that adjustment is best done when the engine is running and warmed up, but unless you can turn the plunger in and out a bit to hear the last possible point where cam chain noise occurs, it might be hard to determine that perfect sweet spot. And if the OEM plunger's ratchet is still locking at its most extended position, you can easily overtighten or undertighten the ratchet. Krieger's manual tensioner allows you move the plunger in and out a few times to really find that exact point of not-too-tight and not-too-loose. I'm impressed with your effort, but at about $35 or so, I think I'll stick with the precision of the manual tensioner. Have you looked at some method of disabling the ratchet locking system? With a little more refinement, you may be on to something.

Hi TNC
Thanks for the feedback.
The ratchet system on the tensioner no longer works, the teeth has been stripped from the small cam so can't engage on the plunger. I can adjust the plunger in or out any time I like without any catching. I left the cam in place as it is needed to prevent the plunger from rotating when in use.
You're right about the low price of a manual tensioner but being Scottish and a Farmer..... Every £ stays in my pocket!! lol.

I don't even know where I'd find 1 pence, let alone 80 of them :D

Seriously though, I love to see people use their own ingenuity. Well done.

On the thrifty Scottish farmer thing, We have a local grocery store called Hilander their logo is a Scotsman pinching a penny.
Dan

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...0A5F201970.gif

The Scots have deep pockets and short arms;)

Good job on the tensioner though, I'll store that in memory for the future.....

This is similar to where I got the original cam chain tensioner idea. After the second one crapped out and after a discussion with my friends the mechanics, we decided to make it manual. I realized I could convert the OEM unit since no one listed one at that time. I drilled out the original KLX650 tensioner which was centered. I did away with the ratchet entirely, just a thru bolt. The only problem with the 250 is the offset of the pressure point of the tensioner pad if one tried to use the thru bolt alone. The thing where care would have to be taken is how to keep the tensioner tip from rotating. thought would have to be given to that... and dealing with the hot exhaust when adjusting...

The reason for someone buying the one I made is due to lack of equipment, skill, time, or desire to do a conversion. That's why I always tried to keep the cost very low. For some riders it's just easier to buy the part and install it when it comes down to it. For the average rider it isn't particularly easy or convenient to have the tap, drill the part, thread the hole straight, grind off the teeth, or understand specifically what might be the downside in the mechanical action of the modifications made. Those with particular mechanical understanding and the stuff to do it can do it. My original posting for how to make a KLX650 tensioner a manual unit is still on the Yahoo KLX650 group files page.

Some can do, some can't do, others don't want to do... thus there are people who make and people who install. I'm dealing with that on removing a flywheel. I don't have the proper tools and don't want to buy them for a one time thing. I'm going to load the bike up and have my friend/mechanic at the shop do the job for me... I can do reassembly, just not pulling the flywheel.

Good on ya for what ya did though.

Dan888, cheers for that feedback.
Like the idea of your local grocery store being called the Hilander, not sure about that sign though!:rolleyes:

Can you buy Haggis there?:D