Went to Big Bend NP last weekend and managed to break the above mentioned, (and below photographed) bolt off of the Klx. As much as I would have liked to claimed some sort of epic event or biff that lead to this, I was just merely killing time in the parking lot making sure everything was "tight". I guess they were... Anyways, has anyone else happened to Hulk-out and break off this bolt on their own bike. Any experience or suggestions with the remedy of this would be greatly appreciated. For what it's worth, I did try to clamp some pliers to see if I could back it out, but it does not seem to be threaded into the housing on the back side. Hello machine shop?

Here are some pics of the carnage:




We had fun though...

 

Yes, many have done this, not myself though. Remove the stud and refit a bolt with a nut snug up to the bolt head, use thread lock. Tighten the bolt to 8 nm torque (very low) and then cut the bolt head off leaving the bolt shaft and nut on the fork. Job done.

 

The manual lists torque for that nut at 78 in-lb, which is 6.5 ft-lb. So it wouldn't be hard to hand tighten it way beyond that. The axle itself is listed at 65 ft-lb.

 

Yes, I have not done this- I fully expect to in the future
I know I will forget and over tighten....... I blame my mother
it is a curse on the family- maybe someday when I'm in New Orleans the next time and sober enough to remember to get this " just can't have anything nice" curse lifted.

 

As per what WestOz suggested.

Don't be tempted to just use a bolt.
The soft thread in the fork leg will soon wear too much and then you do have a problem

You need a stud and WestOz's idea is a cheap and easy way to create a stud.

 

Right on! I appreciate all the fast replies. I hooked up the vise-grips and took out the broken stud. After further inspection, 2 others were visibly cracked as well. I am going to put the bolt in and cut off the head to use it as a stud. Thank you WestOzKLX for the suggestion. I am guessing a zinc bolt would do well enough, or should I go for stainless?

jordan

 

Zinc is fine. Cheap too.

 

Put the nut on the bolt before you screw it in.... so after the threadlock dries and you cut the head of the bolt off; you can gently chase the threads

 

I too have joined this "club" thank you for the useful posts!

 

Ah, oops. I missed that part. I just hand torque them by feel on the wrench. Must have gotten it close, nothing happend within the 5k miles I have driven it. I know the rear axle bolt is 80ft-lbs, which I torqued to.