Anyone changed oil and filter lately?
 

never mind

Mine is always above the top of the glass after changing filter and adding 1.5 qt of oil.
With a slight lean the level drops down into the glass.

I PMd you, have a look.

If it's got a sight window, that's what you should be using to set the "full" level of your oil. Depending on how your bike is sitting when you drain the oil, your bike will probably take less than what's stamped on the side of the crankcase. Fill it up until you see oil near the top of the sight glass......run it a couple minutes......then add oil 'til it's where it's supposed to be when the bike's level. It's really not that hard to do......

According to the manual, 1.5L is with the motor completely dry (that's 1.6 US qts). So unless you disassembled the motor, you shouldn't put 1.5L in the motor. With a filter change you're supposed to put in 1.4L which is a quart and a half.

With the bike held up level, the oil comes into the sight glass. On the side stand, I don't see oil in the glass.

1 liter is probably not enough oil, chief. The book plainly says 1.5L is the capacity and 1.4L is what you put in when you change oil and filter... running the motor 30% dry of oil can't be good for it...

Oil Level/Auto Chain Adjuster May Fail
 

It doesn't take much tilting the bike one way or the other to get the oil level to move in the sight glass. I've got 3,400+ miles (80% off road) on my bike and change the oil every 500 mi. I always put 1,500cc of oil in (with or without filter change), run the bike for a few minutes and then check the oil level. I've never had to adjust the amount, the level is always between the lines. BTW-Last two oil changes have been with Mobil1 Fully Synthetic Motorcycle racing oil 10w-40. $8.97/qt. at WallyWorld. I'm happy with it.

While you're changing oil and filter, pull the cam chain adjuster (Make sure to follow the OEM shop manual directions.) for a good look at it. Dan, on another forum posted a picture on his forum of what a cracked/failed adjuster looks like. He found pieces of it in the oil pick up screen while he had the side case off putting the kicker kit in. I now check mine with each oil change.

1500cc is 1.5L

now, when the manual says 1.4 or 1.3 or 1.5 liters to fill, it assumes you got the 200ml that is stuck at the top of the head that can only be removed by removing the head its self. in other words ITS JUST A GENERAL GUIDE! LOOK AT THE SIGHT GLASS WHEN THE MOTOR IS OFF! on a stand.

when changing the oil filter, dump the oil as you normally would do, then change the filter., now here comes the tricky part (LOL) fill the bike with around 1L have a look where that is and then add/remove oil until it is at full. start the bike let it run for 30 seconds or so. leave for 2 minutes so the oil has a chance to return to the sump(give it a shake will speed things up) now, dont be surprised if the level is lower than before you started it, the filter traps about 100 mL , then you guessed it fill it up to the top mark on the sight glass.

as i said before, the books measurement is only a general guide, and doesn't take into account of fluid still being in there. look at the glass, that will tell you not the book.

hope it helped

1500cc=1.5L 1Qt=approx.956cc
Post for the cam chain adjuster grenading - http://www.klxforum.suncup.net/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=512
You can get a Kawa OEM shop manual=Supplement manual from Bikebandit.com or your local dealer.
Don't start taking anything apart unless you know what you are doing or have the shop manual.

cyclepedia.com is what I use for my service manual======35 dollars and I have a lifetime subscription to the website=====the best thing is full color photos and very in depth procedures----I am an auto mechanic and appreciate how well this manual is laid out. the maintenance section shows pictures of how to change oil when to change oil how to check it how much to use yadda yadda yadda. the noise you might be hearing from the head could be timing chain noise. I performed the manual adjust method and it quieted mine down a lot.