300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Parts are here and I made some progress this evening. Basically I got all the old parts off this evening. Tomorrow evening after work I'll see about navigating this maze in reverse and finishing it up. For now, here are some photos of the procedure and a little bit of commentary.
The parts (thanks MaverickAus): http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89107956-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108290-L.jpg Mileage check: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89107966-L.jpg The patient, prepping for surgery. Nurse, scalpel! http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108527-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89107983-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108001-L.jpg Drain the coolant out this drain bolt. It gushes out pretty fast so make sure you have your funnel and container ready. http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108020-L.jpg Valve cover and cam brackets removed: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108028-L.jpg Coolant disconnected: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108117-L.jpg Oil routing tube disconnected: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108136-L.jpg Timing belt tensioner must go (ratcheting mechanism demonstrated): http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108298-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108613-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108069-L.jpg Cam shafts removed: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108188-L.jpg See the four allen head bolts filled with oil on either side of the valve lifters and the two smaller hex head bolts on the right? Those are sandwiching the cylinder between the cylinder head and the engine. They must go. The allen head bolts really require some torque to loosen - they've got some locking compound on them: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108309-L.jpg Here are the bolts removed: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108636-L.jpg Cylinder head is off - hey, that's the top of my piston! http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108318-L.jpg Color is not bad - maybe just slightly dark, I might be running a little rich. I suspected as much - I think I might have left a bit too much oil in my air filter after cleaning it a few weeks ago and it's not breathing as well as it should now. http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108333-L.jpg Cylinder head on the bench: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108359-L.jpg The underside of the cylinder head, valves look good. BTW, I rechecked my valve clearances while I had the lid off and they are right where they were when I adjusted them at 900 miles. http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108391-L.jpg Inside my old cylinder - looks good: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108408-L.jpg Ok, these next three photos might be a little controversial ;). I think this is an indictment of Motoguy's logic pertaining to "traditional" break-in method. I broke my engine in traditional. This piston looks brand new below the rings. By his logic, this cannot happen. There are a lot of reasons for piston failure and he seems to be attributing them all to traditional break-in. That is not to say that the fast break-in that he documented doesn't work - I've seen it described elsewhere and recommended by others. But what he says about traditional break-in doesn't bear out with reality, as these photos prove: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108422-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108433-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108661-L.jpg Again, color is not too bad - looking for a chocolate brown. I get that in the center but the edges are a bit dark - like I mentioned I suspect I'm running just slightly rich. http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108676-L.jpg Ok, Nurse, I'm tired - cover the patient and his innerds, we'll pick this up tomorrow. This is how I left the poor fellow this evening: Cylinder head, cams, etc: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108702-L.jpg Engine opening covered: http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108722-L.jpg http://nobrakes.smugmug.com/photos/89108763-L.jpg Cheers, EDIT: update image links |
RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
WOW,
I don't know if I would have the guts to do that. Maybe thats an option though to get more bang outta the bike. Looks like alot of work, how long did it take?? Keep us updated nobrakes, I REALLY WANT TO KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT:D. |
RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
That was probably two hours of work or so. But I went pretty slow and was being careful and stopped to wash off and clean up some coolant that gushed out before I was ready :eek:.
BTW, does anyone know if I need to treat the new cylinder in any way, clean it, etc? Ditto for the new piston? I'm just wondering if the oil from the factory needs to be cleaned off, etc, or if it just bolts on as-is. |
RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Hey Nobrakes, how's it? That looks like a lot of fun! Did you say you got that as a kit? If so, where from? I'd like to join in on the fun!
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RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
I just bought the parts individually from Ron Ayers. See the "common part numbers" sticky thread at the top of this forum.
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RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Ummm, What's a sticky thread?:eek:
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RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
ORIGINAL: DieselDog3406 Ummm, What's a sticky thread?:eek: |
RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Wow nice post Nobrakes, I think you got the record for the initial post with the most pictures:D I will watch intently for the outcome. good work.
I had to edit this post because I went and looked again at the pictures and thought to myself I will never have the guts to tear into my bike, at least not until the 5 year warranty is up. I gotta give you props for getting your hands dirty and showing us what the inside our bikes. Plus I did see a little blow by on the piston but I'm not trying to start a posting war. Ok then why did you say that deej? LOL I'm just a stinker LOL later man. :D |
RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Great documentation and photo's! I can't wait for part 2
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RE: 300cc Kit is here - hang onto your foot pegs gents, this is going to be fun
Deej, if you are referring to the middle of the three piston photos and the discoloring at the upper left as blow by it is not. Note that the discoloring is above the ring. The pistons are clean and shiny below the first ring. Anyway - no problem. I'm convinced and that's all that matters :D And I really have no desire to debate this endlessly - besides, I have the photos to prove it ;)
In fact, I'm not so sure much if any break-in is truly required other than taking it easy for the first few rides. I've been doing some more research. The book I referenced on this forum a few nights ago says this about break-in - this is in reference to a 4-stroke engine rebuild: Break-In Procedure from "Motocross & Off-Road Performance Handbook" by Eric Gorr, Third Edition If you ball-honed the cylinder, no special ring break-in procedure is necessary. Just go easy on the throttle for the first ride. If the cylinder was over-board, you will need to apply a high-detergent, straight-weight, non-synthetic, break-in oil. Break in the engine in three separate sessions of 20 minutes each, with a 20 minute rest period between each session. In the first session, never exceed 1/2 throttle and third gear. In the second and third sessions, never exceed 3/4 throttle and fourth gear. Rev the engine up and down while shifting gears. Ride the bike on flat, hard ground (mud and sand exert too much of a load on the engine and make it overheat easily). After an hour of running, change the crankcase oil. Anyway - I can't wait to get it all back together. Too bad I have to work tomorrow - it'll have to wait until evening. Hope I can get it all done so I can at least take a quick spin tomorrow night. I'm anxious to feel the difference. |
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