Because I need to change the head gasket... Don't ask.. Just if you ever do this and think about using the copper silicone sealant on the HG - DON'T!

Anyways..

I used the mototune method of breaking it in. Basically after about 25 miles I drove it like I stole it. Still being sure to apply throttle nice and gradually, no harsh on/off type stuff.. I was doing 3rd gear hillclimbs to 8500rpms at like 90 miles

I pulled the head today and the cylinder wall looks brand smackin new. Like I just put it in today - it was spotless, looked absolutely perfect. The piston and valves were clean and gunk-free. I'm pretty convinced I have the jetting pretty spot-on for this application. (stock pilot, DJ main #132, DJ needle at 4th clip [I think], stock carb)

So, I don't know, that's good enough for me to believe that these MFG break-in methods are a bit overkill. I'm kinda glad I took the head off today and did a good inspection. Was my first motor build and I'm happy with the result Now to just find some gaskacinch! I can't find it anywhere!!

Anyone know if THIS STUFF would be ok?!

Thanks

 

I was always taught (back in the day) not to use any sort of "sealent" on a head gasket. Make sure the the mating surfaces on the head and cylinder, and both sides of the gasket are clean, follow the correct tightening sequence (both in the pattern and in # of steps) and use a quality (accurate) torque wrench and you'll be fine. I would not use gaskacinch.

 

Assuming of course that there are no nicks on any of the mating surfaces and that the head is not warped.

 

For head gaskets I always replace with new and to clean dry surfaces. no need for any sealant. However when installing the paper type (crankcase gaskets for example) I always apply a thin film of Loctite (Permatex) aviation grade gasket sealant no matter what the condition of surfaces are. I learned this the hard way years ago. New gaskets no sealant leaked like sieve. Take all apart again, apply sealant and re-assemble all OK. Doh!

 

The HG came with specific instructions to use gaskecinch or equivalent.. Bill Blue backs that - so that's what I'm going by.. I just need to find the ****!

 

Well if its recomended thats a little different. I would check out the different autoparts suppliers in your area. Maybe even an indusrial supplier. If they dont have it they may refer to another place that they know of. Good luck and hope you dont end up on wild goose chase. Happened to me once when looking for some MoS2 paste. Ended up stealing some from work. I tried but closest I got was special order only.

 

I bet Carquest has it.....where are you located?

Carquest locator.

http://www.carquest.com/carquest/store_locator.html

OMG!! While trying to find out where you live, I ran across your what I thought to be fake website. It's not fake its real!!! I'll have to check it out.

 

A head gasket doesn't need anything extra - just the gasket...
Head gaskets are copper, and they compress when you tighten them (just like spark plug washers).

Use once, then throw away.

 

Well considering its recommeded and backed by Bill Blue I would use the sealant. Copper washers do compress but considering the coverage area and torque applied it may be insufficient enough to fill all minor imperfections of surface. hence the need for sealant. Another tidbit of info: copper washers can be reused if annealed. heat them up with blowtorch till red then dip them in water. this softens them right up again. Works excellent on those used for banjo bolt connection of oil lines.

 

Larry,
That will work. I used when I re-installed my 351 kit after I screwed up the ring alignment. I friend of mine who works for a dealership swore by it. I've got over 700 miles on it now with no leaks at all. One thing I would do though before you reuse the gasket is to anneal it, and then torque it down 2lbs more than reqd. That was bill's advice to me when I had to reuse the gasket. It worked perfectly.