Mule 3010 4x4 idle problem
 

I recently acquired a used mule. It ran very rough so I took the carb off and cleaned it. It starts good now but when its in neutral, the idle is way too high to put it in gear. I can tap on the gas a few times and it will go back to regular idle speed for a few seconds, but then revs up again. When I get the idle down enough to get it in gear, it idles fine. So the problem is only in neutral. I backed off the petal screw but it still idles too high. Also adjusted the idle screw, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. When the unit is shut off, it sputters and slightly backfires. Thoughts? Time for a new carb?

I have a 2007 3010 Trans mule 4x4 that is revs up when put into neutral or after starting and setting in neutral. Giving it a little gas will cause it to idle back down. I have not done anything to try and correct this problem. Hope someone will be able to give me an idea about what is causing this problem.

Hi,
Sounds like Air Leak . the plastic Insulator Are Bad About Warping . A way of Checking is get a can Carburetor spray With the Straw / Long Tube . Spray Around the Back of the carb , At the Gaskets , the Insulator , The throttle shaft And the Cylinder head Intake Port . Use very short Burst . Check linkage and Governor Arm for Bent or Binding ? Throttle cable Bent , Moves Freely , Throttle Return Springs In Place ?
There Is One on the Throttle Pedal Lever Rod Under The Dash .
Ok , This May be Out side The Box ,, Check The Clutches ( I Know , Wait ! ) If The Clutches ARE Sticking ? Hi JMB - the Engine Clutch Is Hanging . Get Yourself A Tachometer to Set the proper Idle speed ( Very Important ) !
Hi Transmule , Same Issue … What seem like the Correct Idle , that Clutch is still Engaged . So When You shut off the engine , The Engine ( " Drive " ) Clutch Pops To the Released Position . So Now When you start ( Cold Or Hot )
Without touching the gas Pedal , Engine come up to a Higher Idle RPM ( Even Though the Engine Clutch Is In The Disengage , It Is Still Turning The Tranny Due To Belt Dragging .
The Clutches ( Both Engine " Drive " , Tranny " Driven " ) Are A Problem Item .
Hope this Helps .
Later ,
Mark

This seems like a common issue with the older KAF620's. High idle sporadically and most of the time tapping the gas would drop the idle back. I dealt with it for over a year until I finally got sick of it grinding every time I shifted it into gear.

I tried replacing all the governor springs without any success. I finally realized the governor linkage was not pushing the throttle plates back completely closed.. It wasn't much, probably a few thousandths of an inch. When I would manually push the linkage to close the throttle plate or wiggle the throttle plate shaft, it would idle back down to 750-850 range. After pulling the carb, I noticed the shaft for the throttle plates had a little bit of side to side play which was causing the throttle plates to open up slightly causing air to leak past. I think the excessive wear on the carburetor where the shaft rides in was due to the fact that there's an abnormally high amount of force being applied to the throttle shaft from the governor linkage when it's in the closed position.

My solution was to double up on the governor springs so there was more force to push the throttle plates closed. The proper fix would be to find a bronze bushing that will fit the throttle shaft and drill out the hole in the carburetor to accept it (or have a machine shop make one) or buy a new carburetor for $300.

The extra spring on the governor arm has worked flawlessly for the past 2 years. Only issue is that I lost about 1-2 mph top speed but it's barely noticeable.

I have the same issue? How did you fix it?